Tempting aromas dance across the room of Neil Rankin’s smoky, subterranean Soho joint. Pull up a chair at the counter of the open kitchen as hulking carcasses blacken over the hot embers before being transformed into a tangle of succulent taco fillings, from sweet soy-cured beef sharpened with red chilli sriracha to smoked goat carnitas. Elsewhere, marbled cuts (butchered on site) are flamed to order behind the bar. Nothing is wasted here: dripping infiltrates the tortilla dough and deepens the flavour of the house butter. It really is devilishly good barbecuing.

Words by Lucy Kehoe.

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