The Greenhouse

7a Hay’s Mews Mayfair, London

A calm and hidden French restaurant proves Mayfair can still be full of surprises, says Renate Ruge

This is one very nice garden path to be led down. The warmly lit treelined lane goes through a ‘secret’ garden in the heart of old Mayfair, luring regulars away from the hustle and bustle of Piccadilly to the calming entrance of The Greenhouse, an oasis where chef ArnaudBignon cooks sublime dishes that have notched up two Michelin stars.

Enter into a zen-like atmosphere of quiet confidence – probably because the restaurant has been going for over 35 years, opening in 1977 and seemingly oblivious to fly-by-night competitors that come and go just a few miles away. It feels cosy inside this softly lit space and the interior scheme features comfortable lime-green banquettes and murals made of twigs. Tucked away is the private dining room, where ivy engravings climb wildly on the walls.

A Drappier champagne aperitif is accompanied by canapés including tiny fennel and avocado savoury macarons that are simply exquisite. For starters, a large white stone plate with a pretty ensemble of Orkney scallops arranged in a shell-like swirl are dotted with dill purée, while tiny rolls of cucumber come with a refreshing cold yoghurt sorbet, scattered with edible flowers. Across the table my dinner date opts for the more decadent foie gras dish, tasting as delicious as it looked with flavour combinations of tangy orange, a hint of Indian spice with cardamom and a sprinkling of chocolate ash.

Wines are chosen from a 3,000-strong list. A sophisticated Burgundy selected by sommelier Marc Piquet goes perfectly with the main of plump, pink Welsh lamb chops from Rhug Estate, which are given a clever if unexpected Japanese twist accompanied by nori, black garlic and a light yoghurt foam. A Guanaja chocolate and praline, lemon and finger lime dessert has been painstakingly executed. The fluffy chocolate mousse-style concoction is decorated with flowers that grow out of the pot on a green wire. It’s elegance on a plate, and as delicate as those same petals out in the garden. Not to be outdone, the mandarin and hazelnut dessert features a curl of chestnut paste and looks suspiciously like an exotic insect. With its Mayfair prices, it may not make for a cheap date but it’s worth it, especially when you are playing for keeps. RR. 020 7499 3331, relaischateaux.com/gb/unitedkingdom/greenhouselondon