The Tramshed

32 Rivington St, London

Mark Hix is the chef every bloke aspires to be – he makes simple, non-fussy, man food. If his latest opening, Tramshed, were a chocolate bar, it would be a Yorkie. Even the setting is from a time when men were men – dating back to 1905, the Grade II-listed building was once used to create power for the trams and, as such, is all high ceilings, white-tiled walls and sturdy girders. The centrepiece is, fittingly, dead animals – albeit a Damien Hirst formaldehyde effort of a cow and chicken. To start: one option, three elements, for £7.50. Soft, chewy Yorkshire puddings with a herb mayonnaise (the mayo a bit girly, but a temporary substitute for whipped chicken livers); asparagus with fennel; cow -heart tomatoes (even the salad is ‘beefy’) with sardines and horseradish. But we’re here for the mains: chicken or steak (with chips). The bird comes on a spike (with legs crossed to hide its modesty) to allow you to carve easily the beautifully succulent, crispy-skin-covered meat. The steak is ‘mightymarbled’ sirloin in cuts up to 1kg and, dry aged in a salt chamber: it’s enough to make a man go weak at the knees. Apple pie with custard to finish and contentment all round. AM.