34

34 Grosvenor Square, London

The table to the right is enthusiastically debating the Eurozone while those to the left contemplate ‘you-know-who’s’ future in television. Yes, 34 has slotted right into London’s premium restaurant landscape as if it’s been there for an age, which was surely the intention when Richard Caring added this to Caprice Holdings’ aristocratic stable. It has a bar that would be at home at Le Caprice (indeed, it has the same designer), brass table lamps, somebody gently tinkling the ivories, little silver jugs and pans to serve sides, neatly embossed ‘34’ logos on things, and tastefully displayed art – it’s all very Art Deco. And it has a parrilla. Whether you’re a food bore or not, the Argentinian charcoal grill does good work when it comes to meat and, indeed, fish. Dover sole is the finest of fish, but the wonderful caramelisation it gets from the grill gives it an added sweetness. The same applies to the steak (dry-aged, bone-in sirloin or rib-eye), which keeps all its lovely, meaty moisture despite its nicely charred exterior – good things were overheard about the burgers too. Either side of the mains, a prawn cocktail was underwhelming, but the chocolate and mint bombe ensured the meal finished with a bang.