Umu

For 20 years, Mayfair's Umu has been serving lavish Japanese with a reverence and deftness of touch that explain why it's lasted (and won a star). The mix of British (Cornwall’s finest) and necessarily overseas (Japanese yellowtail) seafood is treated with such intricacy you almost feel guilty eating it. But eat it you do, and what you have is clean, flavourful sushi, melt-in-the- mouth wagyu, perfectly put together sashimi, and a restaurant vibe that lets you focus on the food, muttering only to speak in hushed tones of the Kyoto-inspired flavours before you. One for a special occasion.

Words by Alex Mead.

This article was taken from the May 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.