Raffles London

Photo by Justin De Souza
Red berry shiso by Mauro Colagreco; his Jerusalem artichoke

The War Office on Whitehall is not a bad location for a hotel, especially, when you add in a name like Raffles and, on the food side, Mauro Colagreco, an Argentinian chef considered among the finest in the world. It took the covering up of underground tunnels and £1bn of renovations to get The OWO (the collective name for the hotel, restaurants and residences) up and running, and even before you sit down at Mauro Colagreco at Raffles London, a tour of the venue reveals countless stories you can’t wait to retell (including about the James Bond Aston Martin built into The Spy Bar). Eating here is an occasion: it’s multi-course, it’s fine dining, it’s white tablecloths, it’s the best produce (monkfish and venison stand out), it’s beautiful bites – some bigger than others – put together by a team that knows how to win stars, something it’s going to do here without a doubt.


Words by Alex Mead.

This review was taken from the February 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.

Get Premium access to all the latest content online

Subscribe and view full print editions online... Subscribe