Why go?

Its geographical location in the heart of Europe makes Innsbruck an easily accessible city despite being surrounded by mountains, specifically the jagged peaks of the Nordkette range, which towers over the city. The 150,000 people who call it home include 30,000 students – which helps to explain why it’s famous for its nightlife. Its setting, of course, means it’s a magnet for fans of the great outdoors, but for many, the Old Town, or Aldstadt, is the jewel in Innsbruck’s crown, shaped by Emperor Maximilian I, who made Innsbruck his imperial capital in the 1490s.

As well as the city’s oldest buildings, the Old Town is where you’ll find its tastiest Tyrolean delicacies and its most beautiful beer halls. The neighbourhood’s most famous landmark is the Goldenes Dachl – Golden Roof – adorned with 2,657 copper tiles. It dates back to the days of Maximilian I, when it was constructed to mark the emperor’s wedding to Bianca Maria Sforza. But this, along with the Imperial Palace, aren’t just reminders of his legacy – they’ve become Innsbruck institutions, which make it one of the world’s most beautiful old towns.

THE HISTORY

Founded in 1237, Innsbruck isa city that flourished due to its position on the trade routes that connected Germany and Italy. By the 15th century it had transformed into a centre for European politics, and its development was fast-tracked due to the presence of Emperor Maximilian I, who spent much of his life here. This city – and the Old town, in particular – became a showcase for the Habsburg Empire. It emerged largely unscathed from the First World War but fared slightly worse during the Second World War, due to the fact several railway lines converged here and it was seen as a key transport hub. Some of the city’s oldest buildings – including the Servitenkloster monastery, which dated back to the 1600s – were destroyed, although damage was still minimal compared with other European cities. Today, numerous reminders of its past– most of which can be found in the Old Town – exist alongside nods to modernity. In recent years, some of the world’s greatest architects have helped shape the city, including the late great Zaha Hadid, who designed the Old Town’s ultra-modern Hungerburg funicular.

What to do

Where to stay

Bed down at Hotel Das Innsbruck and you’ll be just metres from the Golden Roof. The four-star hotel is stylish and slick, and it’s built on the foundations of the former city wall. Choose a junior suite for flashes of gold that reference the nearby roof. hotelinnsbruck.com

Alternatively, head to the Altstadthotel Weisses Kreuz on Herzog-Friedrich-Straße to stay in one of 48 individually and cosily styled rooms tucked into a townhouse dating back to 1465. For the best views, opt for one with a private patio. Alternatively, book the quirky Stuben suite, where a cocoon- like egg chair dangles from one of the overhead wooden beams. weisseskreuz.at

Then there’s the Weisses Rössl, which is a hotel, restaurant and bar. The building is filled with historic artefacts and paintings of the Old Town, and the bar is a great spot for a nightcap, whether it’s a glass of Tyrolean wine or a stein of local beer (the wheat beers are particularly moreish). It’s also the perfect base for solo travellers, with inexpensive single rooms on offer. roessl.at

Where to eat and drink

The Old town is a great place to try traditional Tyrolean cuisine. Franzs Bier + Bar + Beisl on Herzog-Friedrich-Str, just a few metres from the Imperial Palace, is known for its kaspressknödel (flat fried dumplings made with several different kinds of cheeses), and it’s one of the city’s most wallet-friendly restaurants. Or head over to The Ottoburg restaurant, which is tucked inside a former medieval fortress next to the Old Town’s northern entrance – try the roast venison with cranberries. franzs.at ottoburg.at

Die Wilderin is a magnet for meat lovers, meanwhile, who come here to gnaw their way through chunky ribs and to sip bowls of fragrant goulash. ‘We buy entire animals from Tyrolean farmers,’ says manager Claudia Kogler. ‘We know the farms and the stables, and we use the offal, the bones, everything. This is why the menu changes regularly – we often serve ribs and curry, as well as minced meat dishes such as lasagne.’ diewilderin.at

A brilliant option for a nightcap is the Stiftskeller, where you can toast Innsbruck with a glass of Augustiner beer (still brewed according to the Beer Purity Laws of 1516). Don’t leave without a thorough exploration of this beautiful venue, with its vault-like rooms and ornately carved wooden furniture. stiftskeller.eu

Finally, the golden rule in Innsbruck is never to skip the cheese course. Kurt Reindl from Innsbruck Food Tours is a huge fan of the local cheeses that fill the shop windows of the Old Town’s delis and have a starring role on its restaurant menus. ‘Make sure to try some Tiroler Graukäse,’ says Kurt. ‘It’s one of five products in Tyrol that have special protection under EU law and can only be produced in Tyrol.’ Made from the fat-free milk of hay-fed cows (left over after producing butter), the cheese is traditionally served with red onions, vinegar and oil. innsbruckfoodtours.at

This article was taken from the August/September 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.

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