Architectural reminders of its 15th-century glory abound in the Old Town – but it’s also a great spot for a deep dive into traditional Austrian cuisine, says Tamara Hinson. This article was taken from the August /September issue of Food and Travel.
Its geographical location in the heart of Europe makes Innsbruck an easily accessible city despite being surrounded by mountains, specifically the jagged peaks of the Nordkette range, which towers over the city. The 150,000 people who call it home include 30,000 students – which helps to explain why it’s famous for its nightlife. Its setting, of course, means it’s a magnet for fans of the great outdoors, but for many, the Old Town, or Aldstadt, is the jewel in Innsbruck’s crown, shaped by Emperor Maximilian I, who made Innsbruck his imperial capital in the 1490s.
As well as the city’s oldest buildings, the Old Town is where you’ll find its tastiest Tyrolean delicacies and its most beautiful beer halls. The neighbourhood’s most famous landmark is the Goldenes Dachl – Golden Roof – adorned with 2,657 copper tiles. It dates back to the days of Maximilian I, when it was constructed to mark the emperor’s wedding to Bianca Maria Sforza. But this, along with the Imperial Palace, aren’t just reminders of his legacy – they’ve become Innsbruck institutions, which make it one of the world’s most beautiful old towns.
What to do
Founded in 1237, Innsbruck isa city that flourished due to its
position on the trade routes that
connected Germany and Italy.
By the 15th century it had
transformed into a centre for
European politics, and its
development was fast-tracked
due to the presence of Emperor
Maximilian I, who spent much of
his life here. This city – and the
Old town, in particular – became
a showcase for the Habsburg
Empire. It emerged largely
unscathed from the First World
War but fared slightly worse
during the Second World War,
due to the fact several railway
lines converged here and it was
seen as a key transport hub.
Some of the city’s oldest
buildings – including the
Servitenkloster monastery, which
dated back to the 1600s – were
destroyed, although damage
was still minimal compared with
other European cities. Today,
numerous reminders of its past– most of which can be found in
the Old Town – exist alongside
nods to modernity. In recent
years, some of the world’s
greatest architects have helped
shape the city, including the late
great Zaha Hadid, who designed
the Old Town’s ultra-modern
Hungerburg funicular.
Where to stay
Bed down at Hotel Das
Innsbruck and you’ll be just
metres from the Golden Roof.
The four-star hotel is stylish
and slick, and it’s built on the
foundations of the former city
wall. Choose a junior suite
for flashes of gold that
reference the nearby roof.
hotelinnsbruck.com
Alternatively, head to the
Altstadthotel Weisses Kreuz
on Herzog-Friedrich-Straße to
stay in one of 48 individually
and cosily styled rooms tucked
into a townhouse dating back
to 1465. For the best views, opt
for one with a private patio.
Alternatively, book the quirky
Stuben suite, where a cocoon-
like egg chair dangles from one
of the overhead wooden beams.
weisseskreuz.at
Then there’s the Weisses
Rössl, which is a hotel,
restaurant and bar. The building
is filled with historic artefacts
and paintings of the Old Town,
and the bar is a great spot for
a nightcap, whether it’s a glass
of Tyrolean wine or a stein of
local beer (the wheat beers are
particularly moreish). It’s also the
perfect base for solo travellers,
with inexpensive single rooms
on offer. roessl.at
Where to eat and drink
The Old town is a great place to try traditional
Tyrolean cuisine. Franzs Bier + Bar + Beisl on Herzog-Friedrich-Str, just a few metres
from the Imperial Palace, is known for its
kaspressknödel (flat fried dumplings made
with several different kinds of cheeses), and
it’s one of the city’s most wallet-friendly
restaurants. Or head over to The Ottoburg
restaurant, which is tucked inside a former
medieval fortress next to the Old Town’s
northern entrance – try the roast venison with
cranberries. franzs.atottoburg.at
Die Wilderin is a magnet for meat lovers,
meanwhile, who come here to gnaw their way
through chunky ribs and to sip bowls of fragrant
goulash. ‘We buy entire animals from Tyrolean
farmers,’ says manager Claudia Kogler. ‘We
know the farms and the stables, and we use the
offal, the bones, everything. This is why the
menu changes regularly – we often serve
ribs and curry, as well as minced meat
dishes such as lasagne.’ diewilderin.at
A brilliant option for a nightcap is the
Stiftskeller, where you can toast Innsbruck
with a glass of Augustiner beer (still brewed
according to the Beer Purity Laws of 1516).
Don’t leave without a thorough exploration
of this beautiful venue, with its vault-like
rooms and ornately carved wooden
furniture. stiftskeller.eu
Finally, the golden rule in Innsbruck is
never to skip the cheese course. Kurt Reindl
from Innsbruck Food Tours is a huge fan of
the local cheeses that fill the shop windows
of the Old Town’s delis and have a starring
role on its restaurant menus. ‘Make sure to
try some Tiroler Graukäse,’ says Kurt. ‘It’s
one of five products in Tyrol that have
special protection under EU law and can
only be produced in Tyrol.’ Made from the
fat-free milk of hay-fed cows (left over after
producing butter), the cheese is traditionally
served with red onions, vinegar and oil. innsbruckfoodtours.at
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