Why go?

The southeastern French city is a medieval papal seat, awash with great restaurants and bordering a fine wine region – all bundled up in a tidy little package perfectly suited to unwrapping over a two-day trip. At the height of summer, crowds descend for Avignon’s buzzy arts festival, but come in May for pleasant spring weather and a more laid-back feel.

What to do

Don’t fight it – you must see the bridge. As any schoolchild will know, Avignon’s medieval pont was once incredibly long (900m). So for your first stop when you pass through the 13th-century perimeter (Avignon is one of the last French cities to retain its stone walls), head north, through Place de l’Horloge and onwards to the Pont Saint Bénézet. Admittedly, there’s not much left of the ruined bridge now (it’s more of a pier), but a visit to its museum, during which you can walk on top of the bridge, sheds light on its impressive history. The audioguide boasts numerous playbacks of the iconic Sur le Pont d’Avignon inspired by the bridge, including entertaining reggae and acid jazz versions. From the bridge you can see up to the Palais des Papes (palais-des- papes.com), a Unesco World Heritage Site and the home of the popes for much of the 14th century. You’ll need a good couple of hours to do the structure justice – there’s plenty of medieval intrigue to soak up – but allow longer if you want to tack on adjacent sites such as the Petit Palais Museum (petit-palais.org). Afterwards, scale the palace gardens for a view across the Rhône river to the wine region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. There is no shortage of galleries in Avignon, whether it’s the Egyptian collection at the Calvet (musee-calvet-avignon.com) or the eclectic offering of the Angladon (angladon.com). Both are easily seen in less than an hour, and provide a perfect bite-sized bit of culture before you waft back out into the Provençal sun towards a much deserved aperitif. To be honest, just walking around the city is a pleasure – don’t miss the charming waterways and mill along Rue des Teinturiers or the pedestrianised shopping streets south of Place de l’Horloge.

Where to stay

Located just outside Palais des Papes in a former cardinal’s residence, La Mirande (00 33 4 90 14 20 20, la-mirande.fr is a picture of 18th-century regality. Rooms are dressed in period fabrics, and the restaurant offers fine paintings and fine dining in equal measure. B&B Maison Boussingault (00 33 664 46 96 61, www.maisonboussingault.com) is located in a converted stables near the Calvet museum, and has three simple but stylish rooms.

Where to eat and drink

In France, the market is always a good place to begin, and Avignon is no exception. You’ll find everything you need at Les Halles for a picnic fit for a pope, and on Saturday mornings you can also sit in on chef demonstrations. Avignon’s culinary star, the gregarious Christian Etienne (00 33 4 90 86 16 50, christian-etienne.fr), has been serving up progressive French dining in his Michelin-starred restaurant for decades. Located within the ancient walls of the Palais des Papes, with just a clutch of tables, expect to enjoy innovative, playful tasting menus of the finest seasonal Provençal produce – all washed down with top Rhône wines. For an upmarket bistro, head to L’Essentiel (00 33 4 90 85 87 12, www.restaurantlessentiel.com), which offers two seasonal set menus per night. A fun and quirky atmosphere sets Balthazar (00 33 4 88 07 36 09, www.bistrotbalthazar.com) apart – one half is styled a bit like an American diner, the other is decorated with art pieces. Opt for the likes of steak tartare or fruits de mer. You mustn’t leave Avignon without time spent quaffing at Avitus (00 33 4 84 15 82 71, avituslacave.com) – this wine shop and bar boasts an excellent selection of Rhône tipples, and, over a plate of saucisson, you can work your way through them by the glass (or bottle).

Time running out?

Pick up Provençal essentials such as olive oil, lavender or rouille (garlic and pepper sauce) to take home at shops around town. Try Autrefois’s (autrefois-terroir.fr) navette biscuits or Patisserie Mallard’s lavender chocolate.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Avignon is one hour ahead of GMT. Travel time is approximately three and a half hours.

Getting There

EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) flies daily from London Gatwick to Marseille, from where a direct train takes an hour to Avignon.
Eurostar (www.eurostar.com) operates daily trains from London via Paris or Lille, and direct trains between June and September.

Resources

Avignon Tourisme (avignontourisme.com) is the local tourist office, an excellent place to start planning your trip, as is the national tourist board (www.rendezvousenfrance.com).