Why go?

A beautiful Swiss city with a lively café culture, an Old Town huddled around an ancient cathedral and a backdrop of snow-dusted mountains, Basel is a place that has endless appeal. That said, it’s especially popular with food lovers, who flock to its gorgeous Aldstadt to dine on Swiss delicacies in cafés, restaurants and bars tucked into the city’s oldest buildings. The food scene is wonderfully diverse, although it’s especially well known for biscuits, sweets and pastries. Examples include magenbrot, a gingerbread- like biscuit, mässmögge, boiled sweets that come in retina-burning shades and have a hazelnut filling, and brunsli, which are made from chocolate and ground nuts and traditionally sold at Christmas.

But that’s not all – as one of the sunniest places in Switzerland, it’s a wonderful year-round destination. Spring and summer are great times for a leisurely exploration of its oldest neighbourhoods, although winter is when the city looks its finest, with fabulous Christmas markets: at the base of the cathedral in the square of Münsterplatz, fairy lights are threaded through the branches of the trees to magical effect.

It’s the ideal base for forays into the Jura mountains too, although you’d be forgiven for staying put to toast the city with a glass of hypokras, a mulled wine-like drink made with cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. Proscht!

What to do

THE HISTORY

Located between Germany’s Black Forest and the mountain ranges of the Vosges and Jura, Basel is a city with a history that began long before visitors started flocking here to explore its Old Town and to feast on local offerings such as Basler läckerli (a moreish biscuit made with almonds and candied fruits).

In 30BC the Romans set up camp on the hill that is now home to the cathedral. The city’s university was founded in 1460 and, from this point on, Basel was considered a centre of academic excellence. Other notable periods include the Reformation, during which weaving and dyeing industries flourished, transforming the city into a commercial hub.

It’s also known for splendid architecture – its symbol is the Old Town’s Mittlere Brücke, a bridge that was first constructed in 1226, although today’s version is a replica, built in 1905 when the advent of trams required a sturdier structure. The Old Town is filled with reminders of the city’s past, and other landmarks include the Spalentor, one of the original city gates, the 500-year- old town hall in Marktplatz, and the impressive cathedral: climb the 250 steps for stunning views over the city and the Black Forest.

Where to stay

The four-star, Rhine-side Hotel Märthof has a fantastic location in Marktplatz – it will take you just two minutes to walk to the banks of the Rhine and five to reach the cathedral. The rooftop terrace is the perfect place from which to admire the Old Town, and the e-bike rental service will come in handy if you’re keen to offset any excesses. Bag the Marktplatz Junior Suite for gorgeous views of the town hall and square. General manager Alvaro Ferrandis recommends a wander along the riverbank if you catch some warm rays during your stay. ‘A refreshing dip in the Rhine and a snack at one of the cafés on its banks is a great way to experience the Basel lifestyle,’ he says. hotel-maerthof-basel.ch

Love a hotel selfie? Consider Hotel D, a sleek boutique hotel just 200m from the Mittlere Brücke, where rooms are filled with funky furniture and artworks. The pine-scented sauna is a great place to soothe aches and pains after a day pounding the cobbled streets. hoteld-basel.ch

Where to eat and drink

The Schmiedenhof, the historic building that houses Café 1777, is owned by Gesellschaft für das Gute und Gemeinnützige (Society for the Promotion of Good and Charitable Work), which was founded in 1777, hence the name. The café’s homemade croissants are legendary, as is the coffee (sustainably sourced from their own roasting company), and the burgers will fuel a hike to the top of the cathedral, the favourite spot of deputy managing director Tanja Gemperli. ‘You feel far away from all the hustle and bustle of the city,’ says Tanja. 1777.ch

Nearby, in a building that was once the town hall’s carriage house, Kuni & Gunde has a beautiful patio and excellent comfort food – opt for a thick slab of Swiss bread topped with trout, sweet potato or brie, or choose one of the homemade soups and stews (we recommend the lentil and potato stew). In the evening, locals flock here for wine and cocktails, including the popular, gin-based Tasmanian Devil. kuni-gunde.ch

For sundowners followed by well-executed Swiss dishes, head to Zur Harmonie, a restaurant whose extensive wine list includes some very good Crémants d’Alsace. Located in a townhouse that dates back to 1807, its atmospheric interiors feature beautiful wood panelling and an ornate stained glass panel designed by Auguste Matisse in the Twenties. You can’t go far wrong with their classic rösti topped with warm Swiss Raclette cheese. harmoniebasel.ch

This Article was taken from the November 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.

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