Belfast - Ireland
Alicia Miller takes to the streets of Northern Ireland’s capital city to explore Titanic shipyards, feast on fresh fish and celebrate St Patrick’s Day by the River Lagan.
Travel Time 1hrs 30minAlicia Miller takes to the streets of Northern Ireland’s capital city to explore Titanic shipyards, feast on fresh fish and celebrate St Patrick’s Day by the River Lagan.
Travel Time 1hrs 30minOff tourist agendas for years due to its political troubles, today’s Belfast is a peaceful, vibrant and fascinating city with plenty to offer. A tumultuous history is evident – it has left a legacy of strong character in its colourful, chatty residents – but the influx in visitors has led to the city’s modernisation, with high-end shopping and restaurants springing up everywhere, meaning bygone days are left firmly behind. The past might not yet be forgotten, but a local commitment to a positive, prosperous future means the city’s enchanting districts grow only more welcoming by the day.
Belfast’s very walkable city centre, with its selection of shops and pubs, is worth several hours of unhurried exploration. Walk from Custom House Square (this is where most St Patrick’s Day events take place) near the River Lagan, to the City Hall, taking in the jumble of Victorian and Edwardian architecture as you go. Hop on a Black Cab tour (Billy Scott’s is one of the best, 07798 602401) that takes you past the major landmarks and into the Catholic and Protestant enclaves to view the famous painted murals around the Peace Line. The tradition of these political statements stretches back to 1908, and murals are still actively created throughout the city today. Scrawl a message on the imposing Line that once formed a barrier between the two communities, then have your cab drop you at the Ulster Museum (nmni.com). An afternoon is easily spent exploring the eclectic collection, which blends art, history and science. Catch a breath of fresh air on a stroll around nearby Queen’s University grounds, then head east to the Titanic Quarter. Susie Millar is a descendant of one of the ship builders who constructed the Titanic before its fateful journey in April 1912; hear her family’s tale on a tour of the slipways, the home of Titanic’s designer Thomas Andrews, and the spooky, abandoned Harland and Wolff Drawing Office (titanicbelfast.com). Now only open to a select few, this is where the ship was designed, and sits next to the site of the future Titanic Museum, due to open in 2012.
Malmaison Belfast’s (028 9022 0200, malmaisonbelfast.com) dramatically styled interiors have made this converted seed warehouse into one of the city’s most stylish places to stay. Sleek yet comfortable bedrooms are decked out in neutral tones; the restaurant serves a seasonal menu as well as posh burgers, and the dimly lit bar’s cocktails are dangerously good. Splash out on a room at The Merchant (028 9024 7775, themerchanthotel.com) and you can take full advantage of the luxury property’s spa, restaurants, jazz bar and nightclub.
Sample the city’s only Michelin-starred cuisine at Deanes (028 9033 1134, michaeldeane.co.uk) on Howard Street. Fine Irish produce leads the menu, including Fermanagh chicken and Kettyle lamb; upstairs you can enjoy a fine tasting menu in an intimate atmosphere. Michael Deane seems to rule the city’s culinary roost; the popular chef owns a number of other eateries, and you’ll also be very well served at his Seafood Bar or the Deli Bistro on Bedford Street. Outside the Deane empire, the stylish James Street South Restaurant (028 9043 4310, jamesstreetsouth.co.uk) puts excellent local produce to work in elegant French dishes. For a more casual affair, bustling Mourne Seafood Bar (028 9024 8544, mourneseafood.com) is fronted by a fresh fish shop; their fish and chips come in huge portions and draw in the crowds at lunchtime. CoCo (028 9031 1150, cocobelfast.co.uk), a trendy restaurant in the centre, serves European dishes in a chic setting, but for a taste of historic Belfast, head to the Crown Bar (028 9024 3187, nationaltrust.org). In a city full of old and quirky pubs, this National Trust-owned Victorian haunt is a well-known landmark and an atmospheric place to enjoy a dram of Irish whiskey.
Swing by St George’s Market to pick up some locally made biscuits and cakes.
Belfast is a one-hour, 25-minute flight from London.
Flybe (flybe.com) has flights to Belfast from many airports throughout the UK.
Easyjet (easyjet.com) flies from Bristol, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Liverpool, Gatwick, Luton and Stansted.
Belfast Tourism (gotobelfast.com) is a good resource for planning your trip; it has event and transportation information.
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