Why go?

Cádiz is uniquely positioned on a promontory of land surrounded by sea, and the weight of its maritime history is evident in every crumbling stone. Its strategic position near the entrance to the Mediterranean has made it one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Spain, if not Europe. Founded by the Phoenicians in 1104BC, later inhabited by the Carthaginians, then the Romans, followed by the Visigoths, the city came under Muslim rule from 711 until 1262. In the 15th century, Christopher Columbus set sail from here on his second and fourth voyages of discovery, and for many years the harbour was home to the Spanish fleet. Today, the casco antiguo (historic centre) remains a maze of whitewashed alleys leading to open plazas, somewhat crumbling in the blinding sun, but still redolent of a former age of grandeur. With its proximity to the Sherry Triangle, and with an outstanding catch of fish and shellfish landed in the harbour, Cádiz is a great place to hang out, dream of far-off times, sip fino and manzanilla and enjoy some of the best fried fish you will ever eat anywhere.

What to do

Cádiz is a city to wander through. Visit historic monuments such as the Catédral, an elaborate baroque affair with a golden dome that reflects the bombastic confidence of a city that became prosperous as the gateway to the New World. The Hospital de Nuestra Señora del Carmen is another baroque complex with a beautiful patio and a convent filled with famous art, such as El Greco’s ‘Ecstasy of St Francis’. If paintings are your interest, then the Museo de Bellas Artes should not be missed for its galleries, most notable its paintings by Francisco de Zurbarán. The adjacent Museo Arqueológico displays remnants from Cádiz’s lengthy and illustrious past, Phoenician, Carthaginian, Roman and Muslim. The gaditanos (citizens of Cádiz) like nothing more than to pasear (promenade) along beachfronts such as the Playa de Caleta. It may not be the most salubrious waterfront, but it’s lively and fun and popular with the locals. Indeed, it’s here that you will gain a sense of how the people of Cádiz live and play.

Where to stay

The best hotel in Cádiz is the Hotel Atlantico (00 34 956 223 908, pestana.com). Its position looking out to sea is unsurpassed, and the rooms are well-equipped, modern and comfortable. It’s a great place to enjoy a drink while watching the sun set. If you are looking to stay in the old historic centre, the Hotel Las Cortez de Cádiz (00 34 956 220 489, hotellascortes.com) is probably your best bet. It has a welcoming bar, a decent restaurant, and a sunny outdoor patio where you can enjoy some tapas and a glass of wine.

Where to eat and drink

If you’ve come to Cádiz to eat fish (and you should) then the Restaurante El Faro (00 34 902 211 068, elfarodecadiz.com) is definitely the best place in town. Located in La Viña, the local fishermen’s barrio, you’ll find outstanding tapas available at the bar – don’t miss the tortillitas de camarones (shrimp fritters). Other specialities include sopa de pescado (fish soup) and pescado a la sal (fish baked in salt). There’s also an excellent selection of sherries and wines. Balandro (00 34 956 220 992, restaurantebalandro.com) is another popular dining option. It boasts a lovely spot overlooking the sea, and a vibrant, young atmosphere. Make sure you try the boquerones en vinagre de Jerez (fried anchovies in sherry vinegar). Mesón Cumbres Mayores (00 34 956 213 270, mesoncumbresmayores.com) has very good embutidos (selection of cold meats and sausages) and wines. Of course, there are countless chiringuitos (beach bars) to be discovered, so pop into any for a tapa or two and a sherry.

Time running out?

If you’re hungry, but in a hurry, you can always purchase paper cones of fried shrimp, squid and fish. There are plenty of freidurías (fried fish shops) in the old town. The best is probably the Freiduría Las Flores located on the Plaza Topete.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Cádiz is an hour ahead of GMT. Jerez is a two-and-a half-hour flight from London Stansted, from there it’s a further 40-minute drive to Cádiz.

Getting There

Ryanair (ryanair.com) has daily flights, starting in April, from London Stansted to Jerez. British Airways (ba.com) flies from London to Jerez via Madrid.

Resources

Cádiz Tourism (cadizturismo.com) is a useful resource. The Spanish Tourist Office (spain.info) also provides visitor information on accommodation and sightseeing.