Why go?

Cobbled streets embellished with arches, grand structures nodding to the Gothic, Roman and Renaissance eras plus traditional recipes, decades-old, are not the only reasons Evora is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city’s ability to flirt with its ancient roots have allowed 20th-century buildings to flourish next to Roman ruins. And as the capital of the historic wine region, Alto Alentejo, wine and food plays a starring role.

What to do

Enter Evora where the aqueduct meets the city walls and follow its Roman arches along Rua do Cano as you meander up to the main square. Awaiting your arrival are beautiful buildings, echoing Salvador de Bahia in Brazil, and the deceptively delicious Café Arcada (00 351 266 741 777) where the locals devour freshly baked queijada, a warm cheesecake with a buttery crust. Turn left towards the cathedral and follow Rua 5 de Outubro, past shops selling local produce, their cork items saturating the shelves. Climb to the top of the cathedral for unparalleled city views, then transcend time in the Roman temple ruins below. For a greater understanding of this enchanting city and its buildings, stop off at the Museum of Evora (00 351 266 730 480). A few steps on and you’ll find yourself at Alentejo de Ouro (00 351 266 741 332), your second gourmet stop, where you can sample local wines until you find your perfect glass. For views of stunning architecture, head to the fountain in Largo das Portas de Moura, and for a truly unique experience, visit the Chapel of Bones at St Francis Church. This eerie space was sculpted by monks using human bones. Take a break from sightseeing and explore the culinary finds at the indoor market opposite. Taste-test locally produced olive oil, wine and liqueurs at Divinus (00 351 266 752 565, divinus.pt) before relaxing in the picturesque public gardens, framed by the city’s walls. Just 20 minutes from the city is the Herdade dos Coelheiros (00 351 266 470 000, herdadecoelheiros.pt). This vineyard tailors personal wine tours to suit, culminating in a unique smelling experience to awaken your senses before you test their blends. A tour of the estate, with its deer, rabbits, cork and olive trees, is a must, as is dinner at the traditional-style restaurant.

Where to stay

For luxury that’s indulgent but unobtrusive, stay at M’Ar de Ar Aqueduto (00 351 266 740 700, mardearhotels.com). Surrounded by Evora’s ancient aqueduct, it’s just a stone’s throw away from the main square and seamlessly marries modern with classic. You can’t get more central than the Pousada Dos Lóios (00 351 266 730 070, pousadas.pt): adjacent to the Roman temple, this former convent is charming with vintage character at every turn. For a more modest stay, Hotel Santa Clara (00 351 266 704 141, hotelsantaclaravidigueira.com) is also located in the heart of Evora.

Where to eat and drink

Being inland, pork features firmly on the menu in Evora, along with olive oil. Dogfish also makes a regular appearance. For a rustic menu, try the simple, traditional dishes at Dom Joaquim (00 351 266 731 105). Dogfish paired with chickpeas and olive oil and boiled eggs in mayonnaise is served immediately but be sure to order a mini chicken pie (the taste is unlike any other you’ve tried), and the black pork with sweet potato. For contemporary cuisine, Restaurant Degust`AR (00 351 266 740 700), gives classic culinary ideas a modern twist. Order the Evora cheese gratin – an indulgent starter of local melted cheeses – followed by duck breast with ginger and citrus sauce, or veal loin with pork sausage, potato ragoût with chestnut and vanilla confit. Choupana (00 351 266 704 427) is a safe bet for casual dining, offering authentic tastes in rustic surroundings.

Time running out?

See all of the scenic stops from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage: as your driver points out the city’s historic charms, you can relax and soak up the atmosphere. At €30 per ride, you can pick up a horse and carriage outside the cathedral.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro and Evora is on GMT. Lisbon is a two-and-a-half hour flight from London and Evora is a 90-minute drive.

Getting There

TAP Portugal (0845 601 0932, flytap.com) flies daily from London Heathrow and Gatwick to Lisbon.

British Airways (0844 493 0787, britishairways.com) flies daily from London Heathrow to Lisbon.

Resources

Alentejo Tourist Office (00 351 266 742 535, visitalentejo.pt) has all the resources you need to plan your trip.