Why go?

With a rich history stretching back through the Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and Paleolithic times, Gaziantep is not only one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on the planet, but as a result of being the convergence point of assorted spice routes, it boasts a distinct cuisine. Famed for its pistachios, it’s the spiritual home of baklava, and the markets are the kind that every food lover adores. Add to this the imposing hilltop castle that oversees it all, and Gaziantep is not a city to be overlooked by discerning travellers – particularly now, when highs tickle a comfortable 23C.

What to do

In a city known as a gastronomic capital, the first stop has to be the Coppersmiths’ Bazaar for breakfast, joining the locals for a beyran soup, an intense broth made with pulled lamb, cooked slowly on the barbecue the night before. You can still see the coppersmiths hard at work, delicately tip-tapping copper pots and plates to perfection. Elmaci Bazaar is the city’s biggest food market and home to every nut, fruit, herb and spice known to man, plus all things pistachio – the ‘green gold’ of the region that produces 100,000 tonnes of them every year. Try the city’s famed kebabs, and bulgur-wheat meatballs and, of course, the baklava, baked fresh and with the hot syrup poured on while it’s still warm from the oven. Having had every sense pummelled by the bazaar, turn your head to some history. There’s been a fort on the site of Gaziantep Castle since the Hittites, before the Romans (also responsible for the citadel) applied more of a structure in the 2nd and 3rd centuries, and then the Byzantines and the Ottomans made their mark, to turn it into something closer to the 12-towered behemoth we see today. The city is also home to the world’s biggest mosaic museum, with Zeugma Mosaic Museum 00 90 342 325 27 27 housing 1,450 sq m of mosaics, along with frescoes, sculptures and columns. The most famous of them is Gypsy Girl, the Mona Lisa of mosaics, which recently had 12 missing pieces returned from the US – taken during illegal excavations in the 1960s – and restored to this work of art.

Where to stay

In the historic old town is the characterful Anadolu Evleri 00 90 342 220 95 25, anadoluevleri.com – a B&B consisting of two stone houses set around a courtyard. It’s family-run, simple and cosy and offers a good breakfast. Nearby Asude Konak 00 90 342 231 20 44, asudekonak.com is another nice antidote to the plethora of chains. An Ottoman mansion dating back to 1891 with just five rooms, it’s modest, full of character and hidden in an alley near Coppersmiths’ Bazaar. Breakfast beneath the walnut tree and be sure to book in a dinner with the family that own it.

Where to eat and drink

Queues form for good reason outside Kebapçi Halil Usta, the city’s most famed kebab spot, where the coals are forever gently charring tender chunks of lamb and chicken. Sirvan Kebap is another favourite, where they even do seasonal dishes, include a lamb kebab with truffles – they’re also known, like many places in the city, for excellent baklava. Get yours at Kocak Baklava kocakbaklava.com.tr – owned by two brothers who do a bewildering array in every shape, size and variant. Imam Çagdas imamcagdas.com is another to seek out if you really can’t get enough. Café Tahmis Kahvesi tahmiskahvesi.com.tr in the city’s old town dates back to 1635 and it’s where you go to sample some of the best Turkish coffee around, including pistachio variations. Just around the corner, you’ll find one of the best bowls of beyran in town. Metanet 00 90 342 231 46 66 cooks their broth for a good 12 hours. For something more refined, in the shadow of the castle is Hisvahan hsvhn.com – a boutique hotel in a building that was home to an Ottoman general in the 1500s. It now offers excellent local dishes but in a far more white-tablecloth setting.

Time running out?

Head to Facetti Chocolates, a chocolatier that does incredible things with pistachios including their best-selling pistachio-filled chocolate truffles. facetticikolata.com

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Turkish lira (TRY). Time is two hours ahead of GMT. Flight time from London to Gaziantep is 7 hours 35 minutes.

Getting There

Pegasus offers a regular service from London Stansted to Gaziantep Airport with one stop in Istanbul. flypgs.com
Turkish Airlines flies from Manchester, Birmingham and London Gatwick and Heathrow with one stop. turkishairlines.com

Resources

Turkey Tourism is packed with info on what to see and do, plus restaurant listings and practical advice. goturkeytourism.com