Why go?

Geneva comes alive in July as locals and French tourists swap ski gear for swimming costumes. The shores of the lake hum with activity as temperatures hit 30°C and the waterfront bars and restaurants fill up with jetsetters from across the globe. Home to the United Nations and HQ of the International Red Cross, it’s also the cultural capital of French-speaking Switzerland, with historic sights and excellent places to eat and drink. Beyond the city centre and its central business district of global bankers, Geneva has plenty of authentic shops and cafés.

What to do

Art lovers are spoilt for choice in Geneva, with two superb galleries a short walk apart. The grand old Musée d’Art et d’Histoire, villegeneve.ch, has a fantastic collection of Old Masters and Impressionists. Look out for the landscapes of Swiss painter Ferdinand Hodler. For cutting-edge art, visit Geneva’s Museum of Modern & Contemporary Art, mamco.ch, in an old factory in the grungy Quartier des Bains. You could spend weeks exploring the area around Lake Geneva, or Lac Léman as the locals call it, but nearby Nyon is the best place to start. Nyon was a big city in Roman times, far larger than Geneva. The Musee Romain Nyon, mrn.ch, is an atmospheric museum full of impressive Roman relics. Tintin fans may also recognise Nyon as a key location in Hergé’s classic comic book, The Calculus Affair. Late July also sees free film screenings begin, so find yourself a blanket and a bottle of fantastic Swiss wine and some cheese, then while away the evening on the banks of the stunning lake.

Where to stay

Founded in the 19th century, the four-star Hotel Bristol, 00 41 22 716 5700, bristol.ch, is a homely alternative to Geneva’s bigger chains. The basement gym is compact but well equipped, and the restaurant is popular with locals as well as guests. Resident chef Bruno Marchal has 14 Gault Millau points, ranking him right up there with the best. For a special treat, visit the five-star Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, 00 41 22 908 7000, fourseasons.com, beside the lake. Established way back in 1834, it’s Geneva’s oldest hotel, but despite its antique appearance mod cons are bang up to date, including a plush spa and indoor pool. Dinner à deux in the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, Il Lago, is an unforgettable experience, with fine Italian food and exquisite decor (look out for the beautiful hand-painted frescoes). Another destination hotel is the centrally located Grand Hotel Kempinski Geneva, 00 41 22 908 9161, kempinski.com, with three gourmet restaurants, a 1,300-seat theatre and nightclub.

Where to eat and drink

Part bistro, part boutique, L’Adresse Table & Wear, 00 41 22 736 3232, ladress.ch, is a hip rendezvous where in-the-know genevois come to try on designer clothes and enjoy a bite to eat. If the weather’s fine, grab a table on the rooftop terrace. Valérie Azoulai runs the boutique; her mum, Gabriele, runs the bistro. The menu is an eclectic mix of Asian and Mediterranean, but the house style is unpretentious, with hearty, well-sourced plates. A great place to drink in views of Switzerland’s best-preserved medieval old town is at the 16th-century Hôtel de Ville, 00 41 22 311 70 30, hdvglozu.ch. Try the Chasselas, a pleasant, light white wine from Lake Geneva vineyards. Some of Geneva’s best bars and restaurants are in Carouge, a short tram ride from the city centre. Built by Italian architects in the 18th century as a Catholic alternative to Calvinist Geneva, Carouge used to be a separate city. It’s no longer an enclave, but still feels different – more languid and laid back. Everyone has time to stop and chat. The Café du Marche, 00 41 22 827 1696, and Hotel Auberge Communale, 00 41 22 338 0710, hotelcarouge.ch, are both good spots for a slap-up meal or quick drink.

Time running out?

The International Red Cross & Red Crescent Museum, 00 41 22 748 9511, redcrossmuseum.ch, is filled with moving and inspiring stories.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Swiss franc. The time difference is one hour ahead of BST. Flight time is 1.5 hours from London. Cost to carbon offset for the trip is £1.41, visit climatecare.org

Getting There

Swiss is Switzerland’s flag carrier and flies daily from London Heathrow and London City airports. swiss.com
EasyJet flies daily from London Luton to Geneva. easyjet.co.uk

Resources

Genève Tourisme has a list of top hotels, tour operators and a handy calendar of events and goings-on. geneve-tourisme.ch