Why go?

Cuba’s capital is the darling of the Caribbean, with romantic architecture, vibrant street life, a wealth of cultural treasures and a revolutionary dining scene. And, of course, the argument goes that we must all visit now, before it changes irrevocably. Many argue that when Fidel Castro dies, the push to a free-market economy will gather momentum and America might lift its embargo. The one-party state could collapse and the old Cuba will surge into a capitalist future. But Cubans are already becoming more consumerist and have a taste for self-determination, even if change at present is incremental, rather than in a Soviet-style tidal wave.

What to do

Havana’s centre is a symphony of cobbled squares, colonnaded mansions and landmark hotels with rooftop views. First, get your feet dusty: seek out Plaza de Armas, Plaza San Francisco, Plaza de la Catedral and Plaza Vieja. Havana is the cultural capital of the Caribbean, its confluence of Spanish, African and American influences sparking magic. The Museo Nacional’s fine art collection (bellasartes.gob.ar) is a good place to start. Rum is covered at the Museo del Ron (havanaclubmuseum.com), which has a convivial bar for tastings, and cigars are rolled at the Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás (00 53 78 62 46 04). The Cuban Revolution is charted at the Museo de la Revolución (cnpc.cult.cu) and colonial history at the Museo de la Ciudad de la Habana (00 53 78 61 50 01). See the national ballet at the Teatro Nacional de Cuba (teatronacional.cult.cu) and live salsa at the Tropicana cabaret (cabarettropicana.com). Build in beach time at La Playas del Este, a swathe of white sand just half an hour east of the city.

Where to stay

Havana has atmospheric but faded grande dames, boutique properties, business hotels with good amenities but little character, and a private market that ranges from spartan rooms to de luxe penthouses. For character, try the Hotel Saratoga (00 53 78 68 10 00, hotelsaratoga.com), which has a rooftop pool, and for creature comforts book a suite at in the Torres wing of the Parque Central (00 53 78 60 66 27, hotelparquecentralcuba.com). The position is central, the service slick and the breakfast buffet impressive. For a romantic interlude, try a suite at colonial-chic Santa Isabel La Habana hotel (hotelsantaisabelhabana.com) on Plaza de Armas, Havana’s most enchanting square. The hotel has wonderful rooftop views of the port.

Where to eat and drink

Havana’s restaurants are yet to hit international levels of sophistication, but the creativity of its chefs is boundless. Le Chansonnier (00 53 78 32 15 76), in a stylish colonial home, serves Creole-international fusion (try the aubergine caviar). Café Laurent (00 53 78 31 20 90), the penthouse of a Vedado apartment building, does great red snapper. For authentic Creole, try Dona Eutimia (00 53 78 61 13 32 ) in Havana Vieja: rice and beans, slow-cooked pork and shredded, tender beef. Havana’s take on tapas is on the up. Try El Chanchullero (00 53 78 61 09 15, elchanchullero.com) whose dainty kebabs and enchiladas enliven a run-down section of Havana Vieja; sesame chicken shaslik at Starbien (00 53 78 30 07 11), a restored colonial bar-restaurant; or arancini and tamales with jamón Ibérico at Waoo Snack Bar (00 53 78 32 84 24). New drinking dens are coming on stream: hit the bar at Casa Miglis (00 53 78 64 14 86, casamiglis.com), a Cuban-Scandinavian fusion restaurant with a design that recalls a theatre set, or El Cocinero, a restaurant in a converted oil factory with an alfresco bar. Café Madrigal (00 53 78 31 24 33), in filmmaker Rafael Rosales’s home, attracts an arty crew and serves rustic tapas (malanga, curried shrimp, falafel with aioli).

Time running out?

Climb to the battlements of El Morro, the colonial castle that guards the mouth of the port, at dusk and gaze over the city. Stay for the Cañonazo, every night at 9pm, when a huddle of actors in military garb let off the cannons.

Travel Information

Travel Information

A dual currency system operates; tourists are expected to use the Cuban convertible peso (CUC). Havana is five hours behind GMT and a 10-hour flight from London.

Getting There

Virgin Atlantic (virginatlantic.com) operates regular direct flights to Havana from London Gatwick.
KLM (klm.com) flies from London Heathrow via Paris.

Resources

Cuban tourist board (travel2cuba.co.uk) offers information on visiting, as does visitcuba.com, a Canadian resource.
Cubaabsolutely.com is a British-run online magazine.