Why go?

The birthplace of Charlemagne and seat of a line of prince-bishops for nearly 900 years, Liège has witnessed a lot. A medieval political hotspot placed less than 60km from both the Dutch and German borders, and with ties to France (the city was thrown into tumult during the Revolution and still celebrates France’s national day each July) it’s the kind of place that makes history buffs drool. Previously lumbered with an industrial, rather grim, image; edgy architecture, exciting new museums and dynamic festivals are turning Liège into one of Belgium’s most exciting destinations. Plus, it’s the home of famous Belgian waffle, the gauffre…

What to do

The pedestrianised Carré, a tangle of medieval streets in the city centre, is filled with boutique shops, art galleries, cafés and delis. Cathédrale Saint-Paul, which marks the southern edge of the district, is flanked by a pink flower-studded garden: the perfect place to enjoy a thick, chocolate-smothered Liège gauffre. To the north east, Place Saint-Lambert is the central city square. Host to festivities throughout the year, there was another cathedral here until it was destroyed during the French Revolution; visit the Archéoforum (archeoforumdeliege.be) below the square to view the building’s remains. At the square’s northern tip sits the sprawling Palais des Princes-Evêques (the Prince-Bishops’ Palace), and to the east, outside the 17th-century town hall, Le Perron, a fountain topped with a tower bearing the symbol of the prince-bishops’ justice. Given Liège’s history as a religious centre, there are churches everywhere, from the tiny Cour Saint-Antoine, located at the end of a row of 17th- and 18th-century townhouses, to the brick-red Notre Dame de l’Immaculée Conception, or the gothic Saint Jacques. However if you see just one, make it Saint Barthélemy, for its remarkable 12th-century Romanesque brass baptismal font. Nearby, the Curtius museum (00 32 4 221 94 04) is newly opened and covers 7,000 years of local and international art and history. Should 18th-century furniture, tapestries and ceramic arts interest you, MAMAC (Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain) owns pieces by Picasso, Gauguin and Monet. The Museum of Walloon Fine Arts and the Museum of Walloon Life both pay homage to the Walloon community living in Wallonia, defined as the predominantly French-speaking region of southern Belgium.

Where to stay

Husa de la Couronne (00 32 4340 30 00, hotelhusadelacouronne.be) is located near the magnificent new train station, Liège-Guillemins, which was designed by Catalan architect Santiago Calatrava and is a destination in itself.

Where to eat and drink

On Sunday mornings La Batte, Belgium’s oldest and largest market, takes over a large stretch on the north bank of the Meuse river; pick up a picnic here, or snack on delights such as boulets à la liègeoise (saucy meatballs and chips). On the south bank of the Meuse, at the edge of the trendy Outremeuse area, Le Labo 4 (00 32 4740 90 939, lelabo4.be) is about as quirky as you can get; located in a former science lab, all the interiors, from desks and sinks to chalkboards have been retained. Olive oil and vinegar are served from eye droppers; the food is mostly international fusion. With views of the river, Heliport Restaurant (00 32 4252 13 21, restaurantheliport.be) serves modern French cuisine, such as langoustine cooked in Panko with fennel salad and lacquered pork, or sweetbreads with gingerbread. For a nightcap head to Maison du Pèkèt (00 32 4250 67 83, maisondupeket.be), the juniper-flavoured spirit (a predecessor to our gin) which gives the bar and restaurant its name is a local speciality. They sell many flavours of pèkèts, from lemon to violet.

Time running out?

In Belgium, sinking a few pints is essential and you get a great variety in the city’s cafés, or if you have a car visit nearby Val Dieu Brewery (00 32 876 875 87, val-dieu.com).

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Liège is one hours ahead of GMT and is a three-hour train journey from London, not including transfers.

Getting There

Rail Europe (raileurope.co.uk) arranges train transport from London to Liège.
DFDS Norfolk Line (http://norfolkline.com) operates ferries from Dover to Dunkirk, from which Liège is a two-and-a-half hour drive.

Resources

The Belgian Tourist Office (visitbelgium.com) provides information on travelling to Belgium and Liège.