Why go?

Cyprus’s main port doesn’t shut down when the holiday-makers pack their buckets and spades – quite the contrary; it buzzes all year round. In 2012, a spanking new marina, the second largest in the Mediterranean, opens (it will have all of 800 berths, for yachts up to 100 metres). Limassol’s Old Town, long neglected, is enjoying a makeover too. Funky restaurants can now do better than souvlakia and on beaches beyond the strip, there’s room enough to skim a frisbee. It’s Greek without the aggro of a failing economy – and you don’t have to speak the language.

What to do

Head for the market after breakfast and plot your way round the increasingly gentrified old quarter, which attracts celebrities from Athens, millionaire yacht owners and travel cognoscenti who come for the warm weather. Try out the hammam in Odos Loutros, a genuine Turkish bath frequented mainly by old men. The castle on the outside has few charms, but inside it’s a curious blend of architectural styles reflecting past occupiers of many nationalities. In the shops, look out for loofahs, sponges and patterned sieves (more for decoration than for any practical use). At night, back-alley bars open here, places where Cypriots hang out until the early hours – and not one bouzouki player to drown the conversation. Volta is the Greek equivalent to the Italian passeggiata; to feel like a Limassol citizen stroll along the promenade by Sculpture Park in the evening: it’s both modernist and very relaxing on a balmy evening. Give the seafront on the strip, blocked out by apartments and hotels, a miss. Instead, head a few miles out of the city to the pretty Episcopi Bay, built on the foothill of ancient Kourion at a height of 60m. The Sunshine Bar here is popular with British forces stationed at their nearby Akrotiri base. On the hills above, the ruined Greco-Roman town of Kourion has a beautifully restored open-air theatre that stages classical tragedies. Limassol’s brewery, Keo, produces additive-free lager and also makes a powerful sweet wine called Commandaria, which is well worth sampling as an apéritif.

Where to stay

The Londa Hotel (00 357 2586 5555, londahotel.com) is a little larger than most boutique hotels, but definitely has the vibe, and is certainly more subtle than many of Limassol’s larger resorts. Its sea-view suites, thought up by two Milanese designers are modern and chic and the bar attracts cool and beautiful young Cypriots as well as the better-heeled businessmen passing through town. The food here is better than in the resort hotels along the front and there’s a private beach.

Where to eat and drink

Ta Piatakia (roddydamalis.com), run by the island’s celebrity chef Roddy Damalis, seems to get the popular vote as the fun place to dine. Strip a few years from him, add some hair and he could pass for a Levantine Jamie Oliver. The theme is a wall of plates, the kind you see in charity shops, but gone mad. Cooking though is assured and inventive with a mix of Greek favourites updated with Cypriot ingredients and clever twists on mezze. For excitement, it’s even more popular with the town’s young middle classes, the Carob Mill (carobmillrestaurants.com) is a street of four linked restaurants opposite the castle. Artima, more Italian than Greek, is the priciest of the bunch, but sitting outside soaking up the atmosphere is what matters more. Cyprus is enjoying a boom of modern wine-making, and many restaurants in Limassol serve dry xynisteri whites and red maratheftiko grape varieties – both quaffable, and not necessarily cheap. With your after-dinner coffee, try ice-cold zivania, a very alcoholic eau-de-vie that is grappa’s wilder Cypriot cousin.

Time running out?

Stock up with an artisan halloumi cheese made from local goat’s milk. Lountza, or pork loin marinated in red wine and smoked, is delicious too. Cypriot honeys and spoon-sweets are moreish, especially the black walnuts in syrup.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Euro. Cyprus is two hours ahead of GMT and a five-hour flight from London.

Getting There

EasyJet (easyjet.com) The budget airline flies regularly to Paphos from London Gatwick. Limassol is an hour’s taxi ride away.
British Airways (ba.com) also flies daily to Paphos from London Gatwick airport.

Resources

The Cyprus Tourism Organisation (visitcyprus.com) is a helpful resource, with details on Limassol and other destinations.