Why go?

A lot of the clichés are true – the sun is perpetually shining, and most of the people you meet have tried, or are trying, to get into ‘the business’. But while the promise of seeing tinseltown in the flesh is what draws many visitors, there’s much more to the real LA than the movies. A sprawling metropolis, nearly 20 times the size of Manhattan, it boasts every contrast imaginable; moneyed Bel Air versus the edgy Downtown; urban grit versus endless swathes of Malibu beach. You can’t see it all in one weekend, so plan carefully.

What to do

Within its near-500 square miles, LA has surprisingly few ‘sights’, other than the obligatory Hollywood and Highland tourist trap (Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, Dolby Theatre, Walk of Fame and a view of the Hollywood sign all within steps of each other). But no matter; LA’s appeal lies not in museum-hopping (though there are plenty to choose from) but in its neighbourhoods. Frank Gehry’s Walt Disney Concert Hall is home to the LA Philharmonic (laphil.com) and has breathed new life into Downtown, whose weathered, art deco skyscrapers are now flanked by trendy restaurants and hip bars. Shopping is the city’s official sport, and dedication verges on the Olympic in boutiques that line Melrose Avenue in West Hollywood, or at Beverly Hills’ temples to fashion. Laid-back, surfer-cool Santa Monica’s main attraction is its miles of white sandy beaches, and its kinda-tacky-but-very-charming pier, which is heaving with street performers and candy floss-wielding locals on sunny weekend days. Wander along the third street promenade with an ice cream, check out the action on Muscle Beach, or head east to the quirky, eclectic shops of Venice.

Where to stay

Choose your base according to where you will spend most of your time; the city is so vast that staying Downtown is awkward if you’re going to be hanging out in Santa Monica. Stylish, retro-inspired The Avalon (001 310 277 5221, avalonbeverlyhills.com) is a short walk from glitzy Rodeo Drive. Though since restored to a sort of ‘motel-chic’, back when it first opened in 1948 Marilyn Monroe lived here for a few years (and the pool in which she used to splash around is still there). Also in Beverly Hills, Philippe Starckdesigned SLS Hotel (001 310 247 0400, slsbeverlyhills.com) is worth staying at for the breakfasts alone – Spanish chef José Andrés is the man behind the menu. Santa Monica’s Shutters on the Beach (001 310 458 0030, shuttersonthebeach.com) is iconic. Old-world glamour charms guests within; on the beachfacing terrace, sip cocktails and people-watch.

Where to eat and drink

LA is in the midst of a food revolution; it’s out with the flashy, celebrity-chef restaurants, in with the local and laid-back. At Santa Monica’s Farmshop (001 310 566 2400, farmshopla.com), you can dine on divine crispy octopus salad with watermelon, walnuts and harrissa; check out their lovely adjoining deli too. Airy, relaxed Fig & Olive (figandolive.com) on Melrose Place has its own olive oil menu; the crostinis and carpaccios make for a very West Hollywood light lunch. The city has countless ethnic restaurants, many inconspicuously located. A great way to visit the best of them is to join a food tour with Six Taste (001 888 313 0936, sixtaste.com), who run tailor and neighborhood-specific itineraries. Stops might include Korean-Mexican fusion Chego (eatchego.com) for ‘ooey gooey‘ fries (read: meaty and cheesy); Scoops Westside (scoopswestside.com), whose daily changing ice cream/gelato hybrid comes in flavours such as brown bread or salty Oreo; and lattés at Intelligentsia intelligentsiacoffee.com). Pretzelcroissants (yes, that’s right) at Rockenwagner (rockenwagner.com), squash blossom pizza at Gjelina (gjelina.com) and the long-standing Cheese Store of Beverly Hills (cheesestorebh.com) are also covered on tours, and all are worth every calorie.

Time running out?

People-watch at Lago (lagosantamonica.com) in Santa Monica during the Saturday Farmer’s Market.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the US dollar. Los Angeles is eight hours behind GMT and a 10 hour 30 minute flight from London.

Getting There

Air New Zealand (airnewzealand.co.uk) flies daily from London Heathrow to Los Angeles on its way to Auckland. American Airlines (americanairlines.co.uk) flies to Los Angeles direct from London Heathrow.

Resources

Los Angeles Tourism (discoverlosangeles.com) offers detailed information for planning your stay, including accommodation, attractions, dining, nightlife and shopping.