Mainz - Germany
Long overshadowed by neighbouring Frankfurt, Mainz deserves time in the spotlight for its subtle charms and inviting simplicity. Rebecca Twomey unearths its treasures.
Travel Time 2hrs 40minLong overshadowed by neighbouring Frankfurt, Mainz deserves time in the spotlight for its subtle charms and inviting simplicity. Rebecca Twomey unearths its treasures.
Travel Time 2hrs 40minFor its sheer architectural variety: Mainz is packed with rustic Roman structures, half-timbered houses, elaborately embellished churches and a scattering of Baroque buildings painted in soft pinks and bright yellows. The city has been a creative inspiration for such figures as Marc Chagall, who designed the stained-glass windows of St Stephen’s Church, as well as Johannes Gutenberg, who in the 15th century revolutionised printing by developing moveable type, enabling books to be massproduced. These days the city’s food markets and many excellent cafés and restaurants are reason enough to visit.
The city’s focal point is St Martin’s cathedral, with its impressive octagonal, red-brick tower. Head inside to experience its eight-second echo before taking a tour of the Diocesan Museum next door, which houses jewel-encrusted pieces and tapestries from as far back as the 10th century. Right outside is Marktplatz (Market Square), as the name suggests the site for a market held on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Here, you can pick up some local delicacies – Mainz is famous for its cheese, wine and sausage – before enjoying one of the regular lunchtime concerts. Stroll across the square to the Gutenberg Museum (gutenbergmuseum.de) and ask to watch the film in English that introduces this local hero’s life and works. Here you can see the inventor’s original bibles, dating back to 1450, and try his printing methods for yourself. Head north, past the Staatstheater and its church-like windows, towards St Stephen’s Church. The modern facade, rebuilt after it was bomb damaged in the Second World War, has been sympathetically designed to echo the Gothic architecture of the original 13th-century structure. The real wonder is inside: the luminous stained-glass windows designed by Marc Chagall. Wander downhill into the Old Town, perhaps stopping for an ice cream along the way, to the Kirschgarten, a picturesque square with half-timbered buildings, before taking a stroll along the Augustinerstrasse-mile; this is the city’s oldest high street and is packed with shops selling fine wines, leather goods, jewellery and art. Take a break from shopping to admire the beautiful 18th-century St Augustine’s church. Check out the tiny Carnival Museum for a worthwhile insight into the city’s annual street parade. End your afternoon with a walk along the Rhine for some alternative views of the city.
Situated in a romantic spot by the river, the Hyatt Regency (00 49 6131 73 1234; mainz.regency.hyatt.com) synchronises 19th-century architecture with modern luxury; its charming bar, elegant restaurant, pool and spa make for perfect indulgence. You can’t get more central than Hof Ehrenfels (00 49 6131 97 1 2340, hofehrenfels.de) in the picturesque Old Town. The Atrium Hotel (00 49 6131 4910; atriummainz.de) is comfortable and centrally located with a pretty garden.
Mainz is not short of restaurants: you’ll find a pretzel stand, café or wine tavern on almost every corner. For authentic cuisine and atmosphere, head to Eisgrub-Bräu (00 49 131 22 1104, eisgrub.de). This former ice cellar brews three types of beer and serves gastropub-style dishes from schnitzel to spundekäse (a cream cheese dip). Rheingold riverside restaurant (00 49 6131 55 3 1954, rheingoldmainz.com) offers a modern Italian menu in slick surroundings with a New York vibe. The menu features flammkuchen (thin, square pizza), taglietti with chicken, parma ham and sun-dried tomatoes, and a delectable chocolate soufflé. Enjoy a long lunch outside at the Bellpepper (00 49 6131 73 1234, mainz.regency.hyatt.com) with views of the river. Favorite at the Park Hotel (00 49 6131 80 15 0, favoritemainz.de) offers a fine-dining experience.
Don’t miss trying the local coffee and cakes: places by the cathedral have impressive views and offer treats such as käsetort, a baked cheesecake with marzipan and nuts.
Currency is the euro and Mainz is one hour ahead of GMT. Frankfurt is a two-and-a-half-hour flight from London and Mainz is a 25-minute S-Bahn train journey from Frankfurt Airport.
Lufthansa (lufthansa.com) operates daily flights to Frankfurt Airport from Heathrow.
Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies from Stansted to Frankfurt.
Mainz Tourism Office’s website (mainztourismus.com) has extensive resources for exploring the city, including the option to buy tickets to the theatre and a virtual tour of Mainz.
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