Why go?

Situated by the river Drava, just 20km from the Serbian border, Osijek does not have the glittering Mediterranean coastline that some people associate with Croatia. But, with a history that includes prehistoric settlements, Roman ruins and Austro-Hungarian opulence, the city certainly doesn’t lack attractions. The break-up of Yugoslavia brought war to the region, but 20 years on the city is back on its feet. Reawakened to tourism, it is ready to show off its culinary and cultural charms to the world. Get there now – before all the tourists do.

What to do

Tvrda, with its crumbling Baroque architecture, old centre and medieval fort, retains an other-worldly charm. Scale the ramparts for a view across the Drava, then pop into the small art gallery below, where you’ll find an unexpectedly fascinating exhibition of shells from the world’s rarest sea creatures. Nearby, the Franciscan Church of the Elevation of the Holy Cross opens on appointment to showcase its delicate interior. In contrast, the stark yellow facade and Ottoman-inspired turrets of St Michael’s Church are best appreciated from the outside. Have a coffee in the central square, then view the Roman and neolithic finds in the Archaeology Museum and the Museum of Slavonia (mso.hr); they are positioned at opposite ends of the square. Follow Europska Avenija, lined with parkland and colourful Secessionist mansions, to the Upper Town, where the Gallery of Fine Arts (mso.hr) holds a selective collection of Croatian and international pieces. The shopping district nearby is home to the city’s towering brick cathedral, and across the street the Croatian National Theatre stages ballets and operas. Osijek is located in one of Slavonia’s wine regions, Baranja, so drive or take a taxi to one of the cellars that welcomes visitors. Belje (vinabelje.hr) will soon have a hotel on site – it produces a fascinating graševina blend made from regular and late-harvest grapes. Josic (josic.hr) has a cosy tasting bar where you could spend hours – try the cuvée, a blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir. Back in the centre, watch the sun set as you walk by the river or cross the pedestrian bridge for a view on high of this historic city.

Where to stay

On the banks of the river Drava and towering 14 floors high, renovated Hotel Osijek (00 385 31 230 333, hotelosijek.hr) is the city’s mod-con, high end option – rooms offer sweeping views of the surrounding area and on the top floor there is a spa with a Turkish bath and hot tub. Secessionist-era Hotel Waldinger (00 385 31 250 450, waldinger.hr) has recently been restored to its former glory – the 14 rooms have whirlpool bathtubs and there are period touches to the interior design, such as a stained glass ceiling window and original artwork.

Where to eat and drink

Pick up the essentials for a picnic at the farmers’ market in the upper town; you can stock up on fresh cow’s milk cheeses, cured meats, vegetables and local wine. Sink your fork into a multilayered cream cake at Hotel Waldinger’s café, or for something more nutritious, visit the rustic cellar restaurant which serves Slavonian classics including soups, sausages and grilled meats. Zoo Hotel (00 385 31 22 99 28, zoohotel.com), located on the opposite side of the Drava from the city centre, has views over the water and specialises in game dishes. Try roast venison served with bacon-studded dumplings and gravy, or wild boar. Sip on graševina and tuck into grilled carp, pasta dishes and meat platters at Kod Ruže (00 385 31 206 066, omniaosijek.hr). Atmospheric and inviting, the interior is filled with bric-a-brac such as old sewing machines (you dine off sewing tables) and a singing troupe will serenade you with Slavonian folk music. Similar entertainment can be found at the restaurant in Jovic winery, where you can hum along with the locals while feasting on flavourful rooster paprika stew or grilled sausages.

Time running out?

Sample fis paprikas, the local fish paprika stew, at almost any of the local restaurants.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Osijek is a two-hour flight from London to Zagreb aiport, and then a two hour, 30-minute drive.

Getting There

Croatia Airlines (020 8563 0022, croatiaairlines.com) flies daily to Zagreb from London Heathrow and Gatwick. At the airport you can rent a car or hire a driver to take you to Osijek.
Easyjet (easyjet.com) flies regularly to Zagreb from Gatwick.

Resources

Croatian National Tourist Board (020 8563 7979, croatia.hr) provides all the information you need to plan your trip.