Why go?

Formerly the German city of Breslau, much of what is now Wroclaw was razed during the Second World War. But you would hardly know it today. Extensively rebuilt in the 1950s, restored buildings retain a centuries-old charm; galleries hold priceless 12th-century Selesian art alongside modern works, and an indomitable local spirit and plentiful hospitality are the perfect sides to platters of hearty, rib-sticking food – and rows of vodka shots.

What to do

One of Europe’s largest market squares, Wroclaw’s imposing Rynek is the city’s defining feature. Fringing the gothic town hall, dozens of 17th and 18th-century buildings hold buzzing cafés, traditional eateries and shops, and it’s easy to spend hours sauntering around here and the surrounding Old Town. (The adjoining flower market is open 24/7, should you have any botanical emergencies.) Nearby, the city’s university, founded in 1702, boasts detailed baroque frescoes in the Aula Leopoldinu, a ceremonial hall. North of the Rynek, Cathedral Island houses beautiful ecclesiastical buildings, including the Archbishop’s house and St John the Baptist Cathedral; wander the cobbled streets at dusk and you might see some of Poland’s last gas lamps being lit. Founded on a series of islands, Wroclaw contains an astonishing 112 bridges, and many colourful ones are in the centre: on aquamarine Tumski, newlyweds place locks to seal their vows; sky blue Grunwaldzki is one of the longest bridges in Poland; and an intricate yellow dome arches over Zwierzyniecki. Completed in 1894, the Raclawice Panorama celebrates a Polish military victory over the Russians in 1794, and is the city’s must-see art piece. There are also small galleries and boutiques lining picturesque Jatki street. You can picnic in the Szczytnicki Park, which has a Japanese Garden, and tour the Centennial Hall, a Unesco World Heritage Site. And don’t forget to look out for the brass gnomes around the city. Each has its own personality, based on its location; you’ll find a drunken one near the university. For a bird’s eye view of the city, scale St Elizabeth church’s 91m watchtower.

Where to stay

Europeum Hotel’s (00 48 71 371 45 00, europeum.pl) modern, comfortable rooms are just a few minutes’ walk from the Rynek, and its staff are exceptionally helpful. It has a sauna and a popular restaurant, Brasserie 27, serving European-influenced dishes. The Granary Hotel (00 48 71 395 26 00, thegranaryhotel.com) is located in a restored 16th-century brewery, and has 47 spacious suites and a small spa.

Where to eat and drink

Hearty appetites are the norm in Poland, so expect big portions everywhere you go (the local remedy to fullness is a shot or two of ‘stomach vodka’). Karczma Lwowska (00 48 71 34 39 887, lwowska.com.pl), on the Rynek, has a wonderfully kitsch interior which mimics a Polish forest, and some of the best traditional food in the city. Sample smalec (fried lard), cabbage rolls, bigos (slow-cooked cabbage with meat), pierogi (meat and cheese filled dumplings), grilled meats and poppy-seed cake – and try honey vodka or locally brewed beer. Pod Fredra (00 48 71 341 13 35, podfredra.pl), also in the market square, is another good choice for traditional fare, as is Karczma Młyńska (00 48 71 322 60 77, hoteltumski.com) near Cathedral Island – try its veal schnitzel. Wieza Cisnien (00 48 71 367 19 29, wiezacisnien.pl), in the city’s attractive old water tower, serves good, seasonal Polish cuisine flecked with international influences. Jacek i Agatka (00 48 71 344 24 55, barjacekiagatka.com.pl) is a prime example of a no-frills, Soviet-era milk bar. Down shots of bison grass vodka, with or without mixers of apple juice, at Szajba (00 48 660 40 42 70, szajba.wroclaw.pl), and get your fill of the other local drink – beer – at Spiz (00 48 71 344 72 25, spiz.pl), a microbrewery serving six house brews. If only wine will do, Bistrot Parisien (00 48 71 341 05 65, lebistrotparisien.pl) has a cosy bar area.

Time running out?

Visit the imposing brick Market Hall on Piaskowa to stock up on local jams, cheeses, meats and vodkas.

Travel Information

Travel Information

The currency is the Polish zloty. Wroclaw is one hour ahead of GMT. The flight time is around two hours.

Getting There

Wizz Air (wizzair.com) operates regular flights to Wroclaw from London Luton and Doncaster/Sheffield. Lot Polish Airlines (lot.com) runs regular flights from London Heathrow to Wroclaw.

Resources

Polish National Tourist Office (poland.travel) and Wroclaw Tourism (wroclaw.co) provide detailed visitor information.