Where to stay

Berat Castle Hotel Inaugurated in 2021 after a meticulous four-year restoration, this family-run hotel is housed in a 300-year-old structure within the fortified walls of the Unesco-protected Berat castle. Rooms feature beautiful period elements such as carved wooden ceilings and thick stone walls. Doubles from £38 including breakfast. Berat Castle, L Kala, Rruga Shen Triadha, Bera, 00 355 69 849 0975, beratcastlehotel.com

Camp Nivica Having grown up travelling across Africa with her family, Swede Astrid Lindberg created a stylish safari camp in an untouched corner of the Albanian mountains, perfect for anything from hiking to birdwatching. The attention to detail is evident in each of the six stilted tents – think hotel-quality bed linens, yoga mats and one-of-a-kind handcrafted pieces like traditional costumes used as decorative elements. In the en-suite bathrooms water comes from a nearby spring, and all rooms come with a private veranda overlooking the breathtaking Nivica canyon. Communal areas include a bar, dining area, small library and a large outdoor fireplace for guests to gather around at night, enjoying their meal while gazing at the stars. The food combines traditional flavours with modern touches. Doubles from £206, including half-board and some extra activities like guided hikes. Near Nivica, 00 46 709 571 182, campnivica.com

Hotel Theatro Within walking distance of Skanderbeg Square and Tirana’s main museums and sights, you can’t beat the location of this four-star hotel. Rooms are simple but clean, some come with a balcony. Excellent continental breakfast included in the morning. Doubles from £63. Rruga Mihal Duri 2, Tirana, 00 355 44 502700, hoteltheatro.al

La Brisa Boutique Hotel Located directly on Dhërmi’s beachfront promenade, this brand-new five-star hotel features 48 rooms and suites all designed in a sleek, contemporary style. For a view all to yourself, ask for one of the three corner rooms boasting a floor-to-ceiling panoramic sea view on two sides. More spectacular vistas over the Ionian blue water and the mountains are to be had from the top-floor infinity pool, while the beach bar is the place to enjoy some pretty spectacular sunsets, cocktail in hand, after a day on the hotel’s sunloungers. An in-house spa, Artur Restorant and a kids’ club complete the list of facilities. Doubles from £84. Rruga Jaliskari 8401, Dhërmi, 00 355 69 631 2222, labrisa.al

Villa Përmet Originally owned by a wealthy merchant and later repurposed as a kindergarten under the Communist regime, this 19th-century stone villa in rural Përmet has been brought back to its former glory and transformed into an upscale hotel and restaurant. The thoughtful restoration work highlights the building’s historic features, evident in all 14 rooms, with stone arches, fireplaces and wood-beamed ceilings. Every detail has been carefully chosen, from the stylish wallpaper to the hand-crocheted curtains crafted by a local. The restaurant, which goes by the same name, is the place to sample flavourful traditional recipes with seasonal ingredients served up in a charming setting. Kick off with mixed starters that include locally made cold cuts (the lamb is especially tasty) and burek pastries with beef or chicory. Continue with a delicious spinach soufflé with smoked ricotta, but don’t leave without trying the customary gliko. Several cooking classes are also available at the hotel for those wishing to delve into the region’s rich culinary heritage (from £17pp.) Doubles from £55. Rruga 13 Shtatori, Përmet, 00 355 692 166646, villapermet.com

Travel Information

With its Mediterranean climate and varied topography, Albania is increasingly drawing tourists after years of being closed to travel under the former Communist regime. The official language is Albanian, the currency is the Lek and time is one hour ahead of the UK.

GETTING THERE
Wizz Air offer three daily flights to Tirana from London Luton aboard their state-of-the-art Airbus A321neo aircraft. Return flights this summer season (until end of October) start at £26.99. wizzair.com
easyJet fly from London Gatwick to Tirana. easyjet.com

GETTING ROUND
Drive Albania have been organising customised road tours since 2014, offering routes that focus on little-known gems and don’t involve too much driving. Eight-day itinerary including route planning, vehicle and accommodation and excluding flights from £507pp. drivealbania.tours
Albania National Tourism Agency The official tourism board is full of information to help you plan your trip. albania.al

Where to eat

Prices are per person for a three-course meal excluding drinks unless stated

Albanica Winery Former London resident Dritan Prifti began cultivating vines in the UK as a hobby, which evolved into a career on his return to Albania in 2006. Enjoy reds made with cabernet sauvignon, merlot and shiraz, and his remarkable floral moscato on the terrace amid vineyards, with views that stretch to the Adriatic Sea. Everything on your plate will be homemade, from bread and houmous to olive oil and cheese. Take the road up the hill from Kolonjë village and follow signs from the church. Lunch with a selection of small plates with wine from £16. Kolonjë, Ardenicë, 00 355 34 22 2377, albanicawine.com

Artur Restorant A top choice for seafood lovers. Reflecting chef and owner Artur Luku’s passion for Mediterranean cuisine, the freshest fish is masterfully prepared and beautifully presented. Raw offerings include octopus and sea bass carpaccio, and there’s an extensive selection of grilled fish. Two more branches, in Tirana and Durrës. From £22. Shëtitorja Dhërmi, Vlorë, 00 355 69 708 2802, arturrestorant.al

Bujtina Dumrea Rubin An agroturizëm where everything comes from the backyard. Save space for homemade rose preserve, made with roses from the garden. Lunch (two mains with sides) with wine from £12.60 (cash only). Book ahead. Rruga Shelehere, Elbasan, 00 355 06 9667 0743 Bujtina Mbi Kanion Husband and wife Petrit and Dallendyshe Merjo turned their home right on the edge of the Nivica canyon into a six-room guesthouse seven years ago. A true example of sustainability, Petrit and Dallendyshe make bread and cheese and cook with organic veg from their garden. Try the petanik pie (with cheese and wild herbs) and raki from the vineyard. From £12.60. Nivica, Tepelenë, 00 355 69 538 1281

Hemingway Cool meets literary, jazz meets Balkan, Tirana meets Havana. Opened in 2013, this crazy little bar has become a Tirana institution. Owner Rodmir Sukaj, a cross between a seasoned backpacker and a philosopher, has assembled a selection of 1,000 bottles, which includes 300 different rum labels. Lively and energetic jazzy vibe in the evening. Cocktails from £5. Rruga Kont Urani, Tirana, 00 355 069 208 8121, hemingway.al

Mullixhiu Traditional cuisine with high-quality produce served in interiors reminiscent of an Alpine hut, with a few outdoor tables. Start with fli with soured cream and honey, continue with one of the signature salads made with strictly seasonal ingredients such as courgette, plums and courgette flowers, with handmade petka pasta to follow. Book ahead. From £16.80. Lasgush Poradeci Boulevard, Tirana, 00 355 69 666 0444, mullixhiu.al

Taverna Balilaj Kuç If you’re travelling from Himarë to Nivica on the recently built road via Kuç, make sure to visit this fish farm owned by the same family for three generations. Trout is caught live from the tank, grilled to perfection and presented with homemade chips and salad on a basic metal dish. Trout dish £6.70. Unnamed road, Kuç, 00 355 68 291 2362

Te Paçja 2004 Since its opening in 2004, this no-frills eatery just off Pazar I Ri market is the place to try paçe, calf’s head stew, which is usually eaten in the morning. Soup and rice £2.90. Rruga Qemal Stafa 55, Tirana

Te Fuçitë Surrounded by an orchard, this idyllic setting for an al fresco lunch just outside Gjirokaster has no fixed menu but local vegetables are the highlight, with meat from the wood-fired oven. Reservation recommended. From £12.65 including wine. Rruga Valere, Gjirokastër, 00 355 68 602 0002

Traditional Guesthouse Përmet An imposing 120-year-old farmhouse where you’ll be made to feel part of the family, be it for a meal or for a few days’ stay. If you have time, unwind in the famous sulphur springs at nearby Benjë. Note, although the drive up to the guest house is doable with a regular car, it’s a bit challenging, so drive with caution. Book ahead. Lunch of main and side dishes from £12.65. Lagjia Golemas, Bual Përmet, 00 355 69 281 9270

Food Glossary

Byrek

A savoury pie of layered filo dough with different fillings

Fli

A stack of layered pancakes. The recipe consists of two mixtures: one for the batter – usually made with flour, water, salt and eggs – and the other, used as a filling, prepared with oil, butter and yoghurt or kaymak.

Gliko

A preserve made with various fruits and vegetables

Kallmet

An autochthonous grape; the red variety is more widely planted and the wine usually drunk young, although it can be oak-aged

Mishavinë

A soft cheese made in the northern part of Albania

Paçe

A traditional stew made with the head of a calf and fresh vegetables

Petka

Homemade Albanian pasta

Pulës

An old autochthonous white grape grown mainly in the central- southern areas of the county, including Berat

Qofte

Fried meatballs eaten as an appetiser or as a main dish

Raki

A typically 45-60% ABV brandy mainly produced using fruits such as grapes, raspberries, persimmons, cherry and pear

Shesh

Albania’s most widely cultivated grape, which comes in both red and white varieties

Tarator

Cold cucumber and yoghurt soup that can also be used as a dip

Zgare

Barbecue/grill house

Food and Travel Review

As a first taste of Tirana, nothing beats the sweet, earthy taste of acacia honey straight from one of stallholder Dia Sala’s jars, glowing under the glass roof of Pazar I Ri market in the early morning light. She communicates via gestures, broad smiles and plenty of samples until another stallholder steps in to translate and it transpires Dia comes from the town of Pogradec, near the mountains, where she makes the honey herself. Next to her, a couple of elderly ladies knit away, unperturbed by the noisy chatter. The knitted items are neatly arranged in front of them, ready to sell.

A compendium of Albanian products and culture unfolds before your eyes as you walk among the stalls; black and green olives, herbal teas, peppers, fish from the Adriatic, cheese from the mountains and essentials like garlic and onions. Plus industrial quantities of strong raki and tobacco, the latter sold by weight, along with a variety of pipes – Albania still has a significant smoking culture. In the lively café terraces, every conversation is accompanied by the swirl of smoke and the clinking of espresso cups.

Leaving the bazaar, an intense smell of grilled meat and onions announces a series of zgare, compact no-frills eateries where flavourful qofte are served all day. The tiny Te Baçja 2004 is one of the last offal restaurants in the capital. ‘People come here for our soups made with the calf’s less noble cuts,’ says co-owner Edi Nesimi, who keeps the place open 24/7 along with his two brothers. ‘Our speciality is paçe, a stew made with the calf’s head,’ he explains, while dishing out a generous portion from the large pot in the small kitchen at the back. Typically served over plain rice, this is hearty comfort food at its best – as well as a reminder of those times when people needed an energetic meal to kick off their day.

The monumental Skanderbeg Square is a stone’s throw away. Three buskers play next to a vintage merry-go-round, filling the air with a lively Balkan tune. Skanderbeg, born Gjergj Kastrioti, is Albania’s national hero. Until the early Nineties, his equestrian monument stood alongside statues of Lenin and Albanian dictator Enver Hoxha. Today, the horizon is dotted with cranes as skyscrapers spring up like mushrooms. It’s a chaotic juxtaposition of old and new – the young people congregating around the square’s colourful benches clearly looking to the future.

The country’s culinary future, on the other hand, is only a short drive away. Tucked inside a less-than-appealing Eighties building at the edge of the Grand Park of Tirana is cosy, wood-clad Mullixhiu, quite possibly Albania’s most renowned restaurant. Quite ironically, it is hidden below a Burger King. ‘It’s just one of the many contradictions of this city,’ laughs chef and owner Bledar Kola, rolling his eyes upwards and pointing at his neighbour upstairs.

‘The people who come here because they’ve heard of this place don’t expect us to be inside this ugly concrete building,’ he says. Opened in 2016, Mullixhiu caused a stir on the Albanian food scene. Or, rather, it ignited it. ‘There was no such thing as pride in our gastronomic heritage,’ Bledar explains. ‘But we wanted to focus on what I call “gastrodiplomacy” – promoting our country through its cuisine. I keep saying this: we don’t produce cars or watches. But we have gastronomy.’

Bledar rolled his sleeves up and started from scratch – an expression that fits him like a glove. He fled the country as a teenager, during the social unrest that followed the collapse of Communist rule, and worked his way up through top-tier restaurants like Le Gavroche in London, Fäviken in Sweden and Noma in Copenhagen. Back in his native country as a young adult, he started from square one once more. Mullixhiu is Albanian for ‘miller’, a tribute to the importance of bread in Albanian culture.

‘We began from the basic vocabulary of our gastronomy. In Albanian we don’t ask, “Have you eaten lunch or dinner?” but, “Ke hanger buke?” which means, ‘Have you eaten bread?” That’s why we decided to build this place around bread and breadmaking. We select the best grains directly from small farmers across the country – which also has an impact on their economy,’ Bledar explains, walking past the bakery at the entrance and heading towards the stone mill sitting in the restaurant window. There, miller Xhaferr Gedaj crushes the grains for bread and petka, Albania’s take on pasta. Unlike its Italian counterpart, petka is not boiled but pan- fried before being stirred with stock. Something more similar to risotto, which acquires a rich caramelised taste.

During his time at Noma with René Redzepi, Bledar acquired the ‘tools’ he needed to build respect for the underappreciated cuisine of his own country. The result is a minimalist approach, where northern techniques meet local ingredients.

‘The Nordics came together and brought the whole world to cook like them, and the Balkans could be the next big thing in gastronomy – I say Balkan, rather than Albanian, cuisine,’ he specifies. ‘Over 400 years of Ottoman rule have blurred the lines between what is distinctly Albanian and what isn’t. Food has no geopolitical borders. Differences and traditions are determined by the climate.’

Heading south, more delights await as you zig-zag between the crystal-clear waters of the Albanian Riviera and rugged mountainous interior – a landscape of rare beauty that seems reminiscent of the untamed wilderness of South America.

One thing is clear: looking for authenticity is never an issue in this country. On the way to the Ottoman-era town of Berat, lunch is provided by Fatmir and Liljiana Manushi, the lovely husband-and- wife duo behind Bujtina Dumrea Rubin, one of many agroturizëm – family-owned farms that focus on locally grown food. The table is set with an array of starters, followed by a piping hot soup prepared according to Liljiana’s mother’s recipe – loaded with rice, thickened with eggs and with a delicate hint of lemon. Its creamy, buttery texture makes refusing a second portion near impossible. Fatmir and Liljiana seem to be pretty much self-sufficient, producing everything from olive oil to wine. Even the fragrant roses in Liljiana’s garden will become the most delectable rose petal jam. There is no need for a farm-to-fork approach: here, it’s simply the way things are.

‘We are not after profit,’ explains Fatmir, leading the way through his olive grove at the back of the property. ‘We work for nature, friends and family. We often host painters and artists for free and they’ll leave us one of their artworks in return.’

The Manushis are more like long-known friends than strangers; it must be that deeply ingrained concept of besa, a code of honour that promotes generosity to strangers – a tradition that has remained unchanged amid countless transformations. In the words of writer and poet Ismail Kadaré, ‘The guest, in an Albanian’s life, represents the supreme ethical category, more important than blood relations.’

Continuing the journey southbound, it becomes clear how many once-remote areas are now closer than ever before. New roads are constantly opened up – symbolically as well as literally.

‘When I first visited Albania, many years ago, there was no way of doing anything interesting without a four-wheel drive as the roads were so bad,’ says Ed Reeves from Drive Albania, who’s been organising tours of the country since 2014. ‘Now, provided you know where the roads are, you could do a tour of Albania in a Ferrari.’ These new roads make the most recent, accurate driving directions imperative: heading from the seaside town of Qeparo to Nivica, even Google Maps suggests a 2.5-hour drive, but a brand- new road via Kuç can take you there in half the time – and with the added bonus of a lunch stop at Taverna Balilaj, a local fish farm. Here, Evgjeni Lapaj, a 75-year-old grandma dressed in black, catches trout straight from the tank.

A drive along the insanely azure-blue water of the Vjosa, Europe’s last untamed river, takes you to the town of Përmet in an area of incredible natural beauty. Përmet is home to little-known culinary gems like gliko, a homemade preserve made from fruit or vegetables offered to anybody who is welcomed into a local home. A long-standing tradition that not even the old regime managed to wipe out, most of the production occurs in households, but a few people are now turning this tradition into a professional venture.

It’s seemingly concentrated at the outskirts of Përmet, in a rather unromantic-looking industrial estate. Here, a group of women seated on straw chairs are busy chopping large amounts of pumpkin. ‘Fruits are carefully chosen and soaked in a mix of cold water and lime to enhance their firmness, then mixed with sugar and left to boil for about an hour in a copper pot over an open fire. Once the syrup is absorbed and the gliko has cooled down, it is conserved in glass jars,’ explains Odeta Nasi of Almeg farm. With Eftali Qerimi, she employs over 20 local women in the production of artisan gliko.

One of the best ways to end a day in Përmet is to find a spot to take in the scenery while you indulge in rose gliko served on little plates on crocheted tablecloths, and the stone balcony of Guesthouse Përmet, the Vjosa valley unfolding before you, is ideal. In the courtyard below a family are having a birthday party and, watching them celebrate, it seems appropriate to accompany the gliko with a customary shot of potent raki. Its sweet, melancholic taste is somehow familiar even if you’ve never had it before. A taste of childhood and faded memories, perhaps, like Proust’s Madeleine, which seems to capture Albania’s essence.