Where to stay

Grand Hotel Gyumri by Apricot Hotels Strategically situated in Kumayri, Gyumri’s historic district celebrated for its black tuff buildings adorned with elaborate stone carvings, Grand Hotel Gyumri is fit for a spy story. During Soviet times, the refined 19th-century structure housed the headquarters of the KGB’s local departments. Opened in 2021, rooms are essential but stylish, pleasantly decorated with tasteful neutral colours and some come with a French balcony. Art lovers will appreciate the large fresco by Armenian artist Minas Avetisyan (1928-1975) found gracing the sitting room on the ground floor. Doubles from £117. 218 Abovyan Str, Gyumri, 00 374 60 510011, gyumri.apricothotels.am

Seven Visions Resorts & Places, The Dvin Luxury meets cultural heritage at this newly inaugurated five-star hotel in picturesque Kond, Yerevan’s oldest neighbourhood. Elena Krylova’s interior design studio has meticulously restored the pre-existing structure, the former Seventies Hotel Dvin, creating a stunning contemporary space. There’s a total of 153 rooms on offer, ranging from generously sized superiors to a swanky presidential suite with dedicated butler service. The interiors exude a modern feel with hints of art deco – think designer furniture, polished marble bathrooms and sophisticated sound systems. The head-spinning list of facilities currently includes, among others, two restaurants, a panoramic outdoor pool, a wellness and spa centre, a tennis court, and a one-of-a-kind stageless theatre featuring regular aerial acts. Four-legged friends are also welcome. Doubles from £260. 40 Paronyan St, Yerevan, 00 374 10 717777, 7visionshotels.com

Toon Armeni Toon is Armenian for ‘home’ and this guest house in Dilijan is the ideal spot for those seeking a genuine experience. Housed in a beautifully restored 200-year-old country home, it offers comfortable, flawless rooms. Those on the ground floor come with vintage furniture and a lovely terrace to take in the view of the mountains. The in-house restaurant and bar overlooking the fruit garden serves tasty, fairly-priced traditional fare. Food masterclasses are also available. Doubles from £60. 4 Kamarin St, Dilijan, 00 374 98 787899, toonarmeni.am

Villa Delenda Former honorary Italian consul Antonio Montalto came to Armenia from Italy as a doctor in the aftermath of the 1988 earthquake.
A stone’s throw from Republic Square, Villa Delenda is one of his two guesthouses in Yerevan. Housed in a 19th-century historic building lovingly restored to its former glory, its eight rooms are individually decorated with period furniture, handmade Armenian carpets and ceramics from a handicraft centre in Gyumri (part of Antonio Montalto’s Family Care foundation, aimed at the economic and cultural development of Armenia). Those wishing to purchase earthenware can do so in the shop downstairs. Doubles from £74. 22 Koghbatsi St, 00 347 10 561156, armenianvillas.com

Travel Information

Nestled in the South Caucasus region, landlocked Armenia has a lot to offer despite its tiny size – from the idyllic Lake Sevan to the mountains of the Lesser Caucasus range and an awe-inspiring collection of medieval monasteries across the country. Yerevan is one of its most vibrant cities. Currency is the AMD (Armenian Dram) and time is four hours ahead of GMT. The quickest one-stop flight time from London to EVN Zvartnots Airport, 15km west of Yerevan, is around 7 hours.

GETTING THERE
Austrian Airlines operate flights from London Gatwick and Heathrow via Frankfurt. austrian.com
Wizz Air also offers flights to Yerevan from London Gatwick via Milan, Rome or Vienna. wizzair.com

GETTING AROUND
Car hire gives you the freedom to explore the country at your leisure. Zvartnots Airport has several rental car services, most of which are available 24/7. europcar.com hertz.am sixt.am
Public transport – the metro in Yerevan is a clean, safe option to get around in the city (tickets from 20p). The marshrutka minibus service also operates within the city and runs between some towns.
Taxis are inexpensive – download the GG and/or Yandex Taxi app to book rides, as well as bike and scooter hire. team.gg taxi.yandex.com Some companies offer bespoke options too, including driver hire viator.com conciergetravel.am

RESOURCES
Armenia – the Hidden Track is Armenia’s official tourism website and has valuable information to help you plan your trip. armenia.travel

Where to eat

Prices here are per person for a three-course meal, excluding drinks, unless otherwise stated

7 Qar Delectable, traditional fare is served up with a magical view over the Parthenon-like temple of Garni and the Azat gorge. Start with local cheese and lavash and continue with succulent beef loin, but make room for Garni’s renowned gata cake – lightly sweet and buttery – and don’t forget to ask owner Gayane Ayrapetyan to bring out the tourshi jar, for this is the right place to try Armenia’s pickled fruit and vegetables. From £13. 30 Grigor Zohrap st, Garni, 00 374 77 777967, 7qargarni.taplink.ws

Abovyan 12 A secret spot for those in the know. Look for the beautiful handicrafts store called Dalan and walk through to a courtyard where
a restaurant awaits with outdoor tables for sunny days. Live music occasionally fills the central stage, while a dilapidated staircase leads to
a small art gallery. The kitchen, overseen by chef Eric Hayrapetyan, serves up lahmajoun with minced veal topping and spicy adjika paste. From £11. 12 Abovyan St, Yerevan, 00 374 99 580658, dalan.am/restaurant

Aregi These dried fruit producers offer fascinating tours of their premises, which include an experimental fruit garden and the small but interesting Museum of Food Preservation and Old Armenian Traditions. Learn about the production process, savour wholesome snacks – you can even visit the nearby solar park plant that powers the factory, ensuring environmental cleanliness. A new restaurant and bar are under construction using 100 per cent sustainable materials. Factory visit with tasting, £6pp; lunch of several dishes, dips and salads from £9.50. Book ahead. 7/1 Building, Yedesiai Highway, Nor Yedesia village, 00 374 44 842484, aregi.com

Chalet Gyumri The cultural heritage of Gyumri, Armenia’s second-largest city, takes centre stage at this family-run establishment. The chalet, made entirely from recycled materials, features a de facto museum showcasing antiques recovered from structures destroyed in the 1988 earthquake, and an extensive collection of historic photographs. You can also master dishes such as the delicious pokhindz dessert at one of their food classes. Classes from £7pp; meals with several dishes and salads from £9. Mosves Khorenatsi 50/4, Gyumri, 00374 95 521522, chaletgyumri.am

Hayrik Restaurant by Dvin As the name suggests – hayrik is Armenian for ‘father’ – this high-end restaurant in the Kond district of Yerevan is all about heritage, revisited with a contemporary twist thanks to celebrity chef Rafael Kazumyan. The menu features a wide selection of dolma and barbecued meats but Rafael’s signature dry-aged and slow-cooked roasted lamb neck with charcoal-grilled vegetables is a must. Pair it with a bold Van Ardi Reserve from their excellent Armenian wine selection. From £25. 40 Paronyan St, Yerevan, 00 374 33 007707, 7visionshotels.com/hayrik-restaurant

Im Toon This lovely hotel restaurant in Dilian offers traditional fare, with starters like the simple but delicious tomato and aged goats’ cheese from the Yeghegnadzor region; mains include classic trout from Lake Sevan. From £24. 1 Shahumyan St, Dilijan, 00 374 55 561354

Mayrig This centrally located Yerevan restaurant was founded 15 years ago in Lebanon to showcase Armenian cuisine ‘handed down from mother to daughter’ and, following successful branches worldwide, opened up back in Armenia in 2018. Dishes combine Silk Road spices with Mediterranean flavour, with signature dishes like the addictive mante, a boat-shaped crispy dough stuffed with seasoned meat. From £24. 4/6 Amiryan St, Yerevan,00 374 41 760760, mayrigrestaurant.com

Mina The famous Italian singer inspired the name of this restaurant in the former home of renowned architect Varazdat Harutyunyan. Middle Eastern ingredients meet Italian flavours, resulting in unique dishes from chef Dmitry Ilyin like lamb kefta meatballs with Sardinian fregula pasta. For dessert, try slow-cooked apricots from the garden with walnuts and delicate mascarpone cream. Dine in the courtyard, terrace or in the architect’s former office. From £25.13 Martirosa Saryan St, Yerevan, 00 374 11 222040, mina.am

Ponchik Monchik Do as the locals do in and indulge in a delicious ponchik doughnut with vanilla custard in this no-frills café right off Gyumri’s main square. Ponchik from 50p. 246 Abovyan St, Gyumri, 00 374 77 073535

Tsaghkunk Restaurant & Glkhatun The likes of sour sorrel with fruit lavash and walnuts are served in this former farmers’ village canteen. You can visit the bakery next door, where two tonirs and over 300 artefacts, some dating back to the 11th century, were excavated prior to renovation. From £19. RA, Gegharkunik, Tsaghkunk village, 00 374 33 332300, tsaghkunk.am

Vostan A traditional restaurant in one of the most beautiful buildings of
old Yerevan on the belle époque promenade of Abovyan Street. Expect charcoal-grilled meats, an unmissable selection of dolma, and soups and salads. Head to the second floor to watch baker Hayk Chobanyan make bread in the traditional way. From £11. 8 Abovyan St, Yerevan, 00 374 11 480000

Food Glossary

Adjika

A fiery paste made from hot peppers and walnuts, typically used to enhance flavour but also as a spicy dip

Chechil

A typical cow cheese. It is made by heating up curd to high temperatures, which allows the cheese to be pulled into thin strings

Dolma

A traditional dish made with minced lamb or beef mixed with rice and wrapped in fresh grape or cabbage leaves

Gata

A round cake with a shiny glazed crust, originally prepared for Candlemas. Recipes may vary depending on the region, but the basic one consists of a mildly sweet mixture of flour, butter, eggs and sugar. Fillings also vary from a custard-like filling of flour, butter, sugar and often matsun (see below). The most famous version comes from the villages around Geghard and Garni, where the gata are elaborately decorated Kufta Meatballs or meatloaf-style dishes

Kufta

Meatballs or meatloaf-style dishes

Lahmajoon

A flatbread topped with minced meat, greens and herbs

Lavash

Thin, easily rolled flatbread. A staple of Armenian cuisine

Matsun

A yoghurt-like product made from fermented milk, eaten with or without bread, and used in salads as a filling component

Oghi

A strong spirit distilled from several fruits and berries. Usually served in small shot glasses to accompany a variety of traditional Armenian dishes

Pokhindz

A dessert made with roasted wheat flour (which is also called pokhindz), water, honey and butter

Ponchik

Russian-introduced doughnuts, usually filled with cream or jam

Tourshi

Lightly spiced pickled vegetables, an essential component of any meze and a common side dish

T'tu lavash

Literally ‘sour lavash’, it’s a type of fruit leather made from apricots, prunes, cherries or apples. It can be eaten on its own or rolled up and filled with nuts

Food and Travel Review

Away from the tree-lined avenues and the majestic architecture of the centre, the souther side of Yerevan greets you with the rather grim building of the GUM market, named after the Soviet-era department store next door. Despite the unattractiveness from the outside, visitors who are faithful to the rule that a local market should always be the first port of call on arriving in unfamiliar territory will be rewarded: all the richness of Armenian produce awaits inside, beneath high ceilings. A tasteful display of dried fruit is the first thing to catch the eye – apricots, figs, peaches, red and black prunes and apples. Behind one of the stalls, a woman is skilfully turning a strip of fruit leather into a series of flawless rose shapes, ready to adorn her fruit baskets.

As you continue along the narrow corridors, surrounded by blocks of cheese, spices, air-dried meats and large buckets full of the least valuable animal parts such as pig ears and chicken legs and combs – boiled and preserved in salt water – it becomes evident the spirit of old-time resilience still survives here and nothing goes to waste. Fruit and veg are almost hidden in the rear section – from dried wild sorrel in neatly twisted bundles to incredibly colourful pickled vegetables. Tangy and lightly spicy, they are made with just about any crisp green you can think of. Somewhat out of place among the abundant herbs on display, stallholder Anna’s fierce gaze and theatrical stance stands out. She is a woman with tales to tell, happy to talk about her time as a singer and dancer in the USSR, punctuating her story with an old song.

‘I’ve been performing all my life,’ she exclaims, flicking her fan with dramatic flair, before gifting a bag brimming with tiny, lemon- hued flowers. Much like her other offerings, she hand-picked them herself from the fields. ‘Helichrysum, the everlasting flower. When steeped in water, it’s good for just about anything.’ Outside, Yerevan beckons with all its contradictions – Soviet architecture mingles with modern constructions and (a few) 19th-century buildings; Western-style eateries coexist with taverns serving up barbecued meats known as khorovats, and shots of fruit-based spirit oghi. In warm weather, locals like to go out every night – their love for food is remarkable, just like their love for dancing. Two passions that can be combined since live music is frequently played at restaurants, and in between courses patrons may leave the abundance of their tables and take it to the floor.

At the edge of the quirky Kond district, in the recently inaugurated Seven Visions hotel, Hayrik restaurant isn’t just the new, fancy kid on the block in the culinary scene of the capital.

It’s also the place to understand where contemporary Armenian cuisine is heading. Chef Rafael Kazumyan went from a degree in economics to a much-hyped victory in Russia’s first MasterChef show. Many international experiences followed, from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris to Michelin-star-studded places such as Noma in Copenhagen and L’Effervescence in Tokyo.

Rafael’s style is clean; his dishes fluctuate between minimalism and playfulness. Like in What’s on a Sheep’s Mind – a sheep’s scalp in a bed of colourful flowers, a bunch of mixed herbs to be dipped in a refreshing green sauce and a small, juicy piece of grilled lamb fat. ‘What’s on a sheep’s mind? Grass, obviously!’ he laughs.

‘Our cuisine is about a lot of grilled meat, bold umami tastes and an abundance of greens,’ he explains. ‘The combinations are often very straight, not overloaded with spices, and quite conservative. People still expect to be served traditional food here, and yet they are also very curious. This allows us to explore and try new techniques in the kitchen.’

Rafael’s roasted lamb neck is a perfect example of tradition combined with alternative cooking methods. ‘The neck is considered the least desirable part, the one the butcher would typically sell last. To me, it’s the tastiest, though. For a start, we dry- age the meat, which is something you wouldn’t normally do in this country. In this way we give a rest to the animal’s muscles, the meat relaxes,’ he says. The result is a melt-in-the-mouth dish with a rich taste and perfect texture, accompanied by a tart lamb jus made with sea buckthorn and barberry.

Regardless of globalisation, food in Armenia still maintains an almost sacred significance. Bread, for instance; identified mostly with lavash – a thin, easily rolled flatbread always served in copious amounts – holds a complex symbolic value.

In the bowery courtyard of 7 Qar restaurant – about an hour’s drive east of Yerevan, near the Hellenic-style temple of Garni – Iskuhi and Ruzan are busy making lavash for the day. Baking is still a group process and an all-women affair that takes place around the tonir, a traditional underground clay oven. Each woman has a role; one prepares and rolls the dough, while the other makes sure it’s well stretched and opened with skilful gestures. She makes it dance in her hands and then stretches it over a long pillow. Next, she forcefully slaps it against the oven wall and finally retrieves it with a special hook. A veritable ceremonial ritual, deemed worthy of Unesco’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List in 2014.

The tonir has been of great importance since ancient times. Aside from baking and warmth, it also served as a gathering place for special events, weddings in particular. The newlyweds are blessed with lavash thrown over their shoulders – an old practice that is still observed to this day.

After being overshadowed by industrial baking in the late Eighties, the tonir experienced a resurgence, when the collapse of the Soviet Union in the early Nineties and resulting food and electricity shortages prompted people to embrace traditional practices once again. Anyone who has a tonir knows how to put it to good use, and ancient ones are carefully restored and preserved.

Such is the case with the recently opened Tsaghkunk restaurant, in the village with the same name further north. Here, two ancient tonirs were put under glass for guests to peek at. Previously a local canteen, Tsaghkunk has evolved into a must-visit spot to discover the country’s most interesting cuisine. Chef Arevik Martirosyan has been at the helm of the kitchen for over two years. She welcomes us with a bashful grin and her signature dark headband.

‘In 2021, Mads Refslund, co-founder of Noma, was invited to study our regional cuisine and help develop Tsaghkunk’s menu, working on new ways to use local ingredients within a fresh culinary narrative,’ she explains. ‘That was the first of a series of collaborations, which are so important for gastronomic development.’

Arevik is a woman of few words but her dishes speak loudly, from her savoury version of ponchik doughnuts filled with the fermented milk product choratan and mountainous herbs, to her use of wild sorrel, served with fruit lavash and walnuts. Her cuisine showcases a harmony of local flavours, all revisited with a personal twist. ‘My village is a constant source of inspiration,’ she says. ‘Herbs are particularly abundant here. And so is fish from nearby Lake Sevan.’

The bends of the road leading to Sevan – the largest freshwater lake in the Caucasus – are punctuated with roadside stands selling grilled corn, typically barbecued over wood coals. As you approach the lake shore, they give way to buckthorn sellers, their buckets overflowing with tiny orange berries. There is a certain, rare poetry in their food. And then there is fish. It has been a common practice for men to stand by the side of the highway, their hands held apart to indicate the size of their daily catch to passing motorists. Trout, whitefish and crab are usually on offer. These days, dummies have become the norm – their arms spread out, mimicking the fishmongers. Keep an eye out for the blonde one right across from the supermarket in the lakeside village of Tsovagyugh.

It is sufficient to look at a map to grasp where Armenia’s complex history comes from. A territory where the West fades into the East – over the centuries it has been overrun, subdued, disputed. And yet it has managed to maintain a strong sense of identity, an idea of nationhood, regardless of how many times borders have been redesigned. And the concept of survival, integral to the lives of these people, is reflected in their culinary traditions.

‘There is a recurring need to store, to preserve,’ explains Anahit Gharibyan, who owns a dried fruit factory, Aregi, 45 minutes north- west of Yerevan. ‘Take lavash, for example. Thanks to its long shelf life, it was often a lifesaver – in war times, during the genocide [of 1915]. There’s much more to say aside from the sad part of the story, though. And that’s exactly what we want to do here: preserve our heritage and show the bright side of things.’

Anahit and her family rolled up their sleeves ten years ago when they created Optimum Energy, a major solar plant developer that currently accounts for 2.5 per cent of the country’s electricity needs. Aregi is their most recent brainchild – launched in 2020, it quickly became a game-changer in the industry, with over 80 no-additives, no-added-sugar products and a modern, sustainable approach.

‘Zero carbon emission, zero waste. Whatever is left is either used to make vodka or converted into fertiliser,’ she says, leading the way through experimental orchards at the back of the plant. And the impact on the community has been enormous. ‘Aregi created new jobs in a previously depressed area. Moreover, women make 80 per cent of the workforce – 80 to 120, depending on the season. We provide training, allowing them to grow professionally.

‘Some came for the harvest and are now managers,’ she says, presenting an enormous Armenia-shaped tray of dried fruits – grape, fig, plum, peach, pear, you name it, plus the sweet Armenian apricot, which the Romans described as ‘Armenian apple’; it’s thought to have originated in this corner of the world, dating back 3,000 years. Indeed, some 50 varieties of apricots are cultivated these days, and its versatile wood is used – to craft, for example, the duduk, a wind instrument referred to as the ‘apricot pipe’. Hearing a man play it inside the temple of Garni is evocative: its touching, cello-like sound both sad and captivating. Armenians would tell you it is reflective of the fate of their nation. It might well be. To the visitor, however, this land overwhelmingly exudes the gentle, honey-like flavour of those apricots.

DON'T MISS

Dilijan and Gyumri Beyond the capital, discover hidden treasures
in Armenia’s smaller cities, all within a two-hour drive from Yerevan. Dubbed as ‘the Switzerland of Armenia’, mountainous Dilijan boasts a distinctive architecture of gingerbread-style houses and steep tiled roofs, surrounded by enchanting scenery and countless hiking opportunities. Gyumri, the country’s second-largest city, with its cobblestone streets
and black tuff buildings, is also worth a visit – and don’t miss out the beautifully retro Luxe Barbershop (7 Gayi St), established in 1941, it has since evolved into a must-visit cultural landmark.

GUM market Named after a nearby department store, the GUM market
is the place to stock up on Armenian goods such as sweet sujuk (strings of syrup-coated walnuts), dried fruit in any shape or form and plenty of handpicked herbal teas. Go on an empty stomach, as vendors lure you
in with samples. 35 Movses Khorenatsi St, Yerevan

Lusik Aguletsi MuseumThe streets of Yerevan were once graced by the presence of Lusik Aguletsi, a renowned artist and ethnographer who was the last Armenian woman to don traditional attire she designed herself. Her house is now a museum showcasing an extensive collection of outfits, jewellery and furniture. On the premises you’ll also find the cosy Art Café, serving excellent regional food. Several classes are on offer, including a gata masterclass. Entry £4pp; classes from £3pp.
9 Muratsan St, Yerevan, 00 374 55 024424

Mikayelyan Family Farm Located in the village of Artsvakar, a short diversion from the western shore of Lake Sevan, this family-owned cheese farm was established in 2012. Production started with classic Armenian cheeses, gradually branching out to include more experimental varieties and flavours. Today they produce over ten types – the standout is Maria: strong- flavoured, with at least two years of ageing and a consistency similar to very old Parmigiano Reggiano. A visit to the underground cellars is followed by a generous tasting in a dacha surrounded by flowers and white birches. Advance booking is advised. Cheese and cold cuts tasting, with wine, from £8pp. Building 27, 1 Line 2 St, Artsvakar, 00 374 98 505027

Wine tasting Armenia is one of the world’s oldest winemaking countries
– the earliest known winery dating back over 6,100 years. While under Soviet rule, winemaking was left aside in favour of brandy production, it is now experiencing a renaissance. In the viticultural region of Aragatsotn, family-owned Armenia Wine features the only wine museum in the country; and, a stone’s throw away, boutique winery Van Ardi is where some of the country’s finest wines are born from organic vines. Tour and tasting – 3 wines and cheese platter – from £7pp (Armenia Wine) and £9.90pp (Van Ardi). Sasunik village, Aragatsotn, 00 374 60 467707, armeniawine.am 00 374 15 500 800, vanardi.com

Yeganyans’ Guest House & Wine Yard Armenia’s Gastro Yards are a great way to have a hands-on experience, sampling traditional dishes and joining a cooking class. At Sedrak Yeganyans’ vineyard in Ashtarak, a 30-minute drive north-west of Yerevan, ten varieties of grapes are grown, and you can have a go at preparing a proper Armenian barbecue in a tonir. Wife Nelly’s homemade meal, with a selection of starters, salads and desserts complete the experience. Meal from £10pp. Book ahead.
8 Smbat Shahaziz St, Ashtarak, 00 374 99 015864