Where to stay

Alegra This beautifully refurbished, historic stone house is now a stylish, romantic boutique hotel. Hidden behind high walls, you can relax in the terraced gardens and stylish bedrooms, and watch your dinner being prepared in the open kitchen cum dining-area. Spa treatments are also popular here. Doubles from £210. Derech Ha’achayot 13, Ein-Kerem, 00 972 2 6500 506, http://hotelalegra.co.il

Arthur Hotel The small, new hotel has quickly become popular thanks to its central, west Jerusalem location in a pedestrian area, free wi-fi, comfortable rooms and helpful staff. Doubles from £160. Dorot Rishonim Street 13, 00 972 3 542 5555, http://atlas.co.il/arthur-jerusalem

Mamilla Hotel Ultra-modern hotel designed by the world-renowned architect Moshe Safdie, with an interior by Piero Lissoni. A sleek, minimalist aesthetic provides a calm haven that combines new technology, Jerusalem stone, Holistic Wellbeing Centre and welcoming staff. There’s also a very decent buffet breakfast. Doubles from £270. King Solomon Street 11, 00 972 2 548 2222, http://mamillahotel.com

YMCA Three Arches Hotel Housed in a landmark 1930s building designed by the architect of the Empire State Building, this hotel near the edge of the Old City, a few minutes’ walk from the Jaffa Gate, has beautiful gardens and an indoor swimming pool. Rooms are simple but include cable TV and air-con. Twin rooms from £130. 26 King David Street, 00 972 2 569 2692, http://ymca3arches.com

Travel Information

Jerusalem lies inland from the Mediterranean, 65 kilometres south-east of coastal Tel Aviv. It is the country’s designated capital, although internationally it is rarely recognised as such, with disputes over territory meaning most countries regard Tel Aviv as the capital. Jerusalem is two hours ahead of GMT. Currency is the shekel. The climate in Jerusalem in December is mild, with average high temperatures of 14˚C.

GETTING THERE
EasyJet (http://easyjet.com) flies daily from London Luton to Tel Aviv, from which Jerusalem is about 45 minutes’ drive.
British Airways (http://ba.com) flies direct from London Heathrow to Tel Aviv three times daily.
El Al Airlines (http://fly.elal.co.il) flies from London to Tel Aviv twice daily.

RESOURCES
Think Israel (http://thinkisrael.com). The tourist board website has a wealth of ideas about what to see and do in Jerusalem and further afield.
Jerusalem Municipality (http://jerusalem.muni.il) keeps you informed about events, customs, local history and essential contacts for your stay.

FURTHER READING
Jerusalem by Yotam Ottolenghi & Sami Tamimi (Ebury Press, £27). The London restaurant duo dish up 100 recipes from their home city, from spicy soups to fish, salads and desserts – inspired yet accessible.

Where to eat

Prices are for three courses excluding wine, unless otherwise stated. Restaurants marked (K) conform to the Jewish kosher dietary laws.

Abu Shukri Long-time contender for best hummus, in a cavernous location by the fifth station of the cross. Also good falafel. About £7 depending on plate size. Alwad Street, Old City, 00 972 2 627 1538

Arab Market The Old City souq is a lively warren, selling everything from hand-woven rugs to colourful beads and all manner of tourist tat. Food stalls are stacked with vegetables, herbs and spices, while vendors hawk hummus, breads and kebabs. Old City, near Damascus Gate.

Arcadia Set in a beautifully renovated old stone house near Machane Yehuda market. Ezra Kedem cooks with the deceptive simplicity that comes only out of great skill, understanding of flavours and commitment to seasonal, organic produce. Star dishes include wood-grilled grey grouper in hyssop butter with lemons and capers, and lamb ravioli with sweetbreads and fresh herbs. £70. Agripas 10, 00 972 2 624 9138, http://arcadiarest.com

Cavalier Sleek, intimate French restaurant with a loyal following. Classic dishes include shrimps in a copper pan, tournedos Rossini and tarte Tatin. £55. Ben Sira 1, 00 972 579 345535, http://cavalier.rest-e.co.il

Chatzot (K) Open since the 1970s and one of the oldest grill houses in the city, the signature dish is the spicy Jerusalem mixed grill for around £12. Agripas Street 123, 00 972 2 624 4014

Citron Man Stop by for citron-based potions, as well as freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable drinks from Uzi-Eli. Or be adventurous and try a glass of ‘etrogat juice’, a blend of citrus juice and gat leaves. Machane Yehuda Market, http://etrogman.com

EatWith This is an Israeli-founded international home dining scheme that offers access to private homes and authentic cooking. The Jerusalem experiences include a delicious organic vegetarian dinner at an eco-friendly house in the artists’ village of Ein Karem. http://eatwith.com

Eucalyptus (K) Sophisticated cooking with a Biblical slant in an artists’ colony. Includes dishes such as lentil stew, figs stuffed with chicken in a tamarind sauce, lamb baked overnight in a clay dish, seven-vegetable couscous and salmon with hyssop sabayon. Try the cold hibiscus drink. £50. Hativat Yerushalayim 14, 00 972 2 6244 331, http://the-eucalyptus.com

Ja’far Sweets Company One of the best Palestinian sweet cafés in the Old City. Souq Khan Az-Zait, Old City, 00 972 2 628 3582

Machane Yehuda This market is located between Jaffa Road and Agripas Street. Opening times: Sunday-Thursday, 9am to 8pm. Friday, 9am to one hour before sundown.

Machne Yuda Market-driven, creative modern cooking. Sample dishes such as ‘Persian style stew with a lot of tasty stuff’, ‘Crazy mushroom risotto with truffle oil’, ‘Lamb inner parts – can you handle it?’ and ‘I-scream-sandwich and chocolate poisoning’ should give a feel of the exuberant style on offer here. £55. Beit Ya’akov Street 10, 00 972 2 5333 442, machneyuda.co.il

Majda Inventive, original cooking based on seasonal local ingredients. The restaurant is located in a beautiful blue house in the hills and is run by an Arab-Jewish couple. Reservations essential. £50. Ein Rafa, 00 972 2 579 7108, http://majda.co.il

Mamilla Café Prime spot overlooking Mamilla mall, serving superb salads, pasta and pizza. £35. Mamilla Hotel, 00 972 2 548 2230

Rooftop (K) (See also Mamilla Hotel in ‘Where to Stay’). Breathtaking views over the Old City throughout the year, plus top-tier modern Israeli cuisine such as spring chicken marinated in sumac on a bed of wheat risotto and chutney, and an iron-rich green salad with pomegranate vinaigrette. £60. Mamilla Hotel, 00 972 2 548 2230
Srigim Beer This brewery is located on fine farmland – call or email to check about opening times for their beer-tasting. Srigim, 00 972 052 5938 287, http://srigim-beer.co.il
Teller Bakery (K) If you can’t wait to get the fresh bread and pastries home, the shop has a few tables for coffee and bakery goods. Don’t miss the brioche. Agripas 74, 00 972 50 397 3487
The First Station Cultural centre and restaurants with exhibitions, events and great food, including a gourmet market (the food market is kosher but the restaurants are a mix of kosher and non-kosher). Jerusalem Old Train Station, David Remez Street 4, http://firststation.co.il
Tmol Shilshom (K) It’s hard to find this 150-year-old house in the Nahalat Shiva district, but once there, hang out browsing the secondhand books, have a coffee or sample the delicious daily menu and write your novel in a relaxed, bohemian, gay-friendly atmosphere. Solomon Street 5, 00 972 2 623 2758, http://tmol-shilshom.co.il

Food Glossary

Babka

Soft sweet yeast cake filled with chocolate, poppy seeds,nuts or soft cheese

Balilah

Chickpeas with cumin and lemon juice

Challah

Plaited Jewish Sabbath bread

Chraimeh

Libyan Jewish red and spicy-hot sauce for fish

Falafel

Spicy chickpea fritters

Freekeh

Green wheat

Graybeh

Rose water shortbread ‘bracelets’

Hummus

Chickpea, tahini and garlic dip

Jerusalem kugel

Caramelised noodle bake with black pepper

Jerusalem mixed grill

J Spicy fried chicken innards, lamb and onions

Ka’ach

Crunchy, savoury bread rings

Kibbeh

Deep-fried minced meat and bulgar wheat balls or torpedoes

Kishk

Cracked wheat yoghurt

Knafeh

Orange-coloured vermicelli-like dough stuffed with goat’scheese and sweetened with syrup and nuts

Knaidlach

Jewish matzo meal dumplings

Kofta/Ktsitsot

Arab and Jewish versions of meatballs

Kubbeh

Bulgar or semolina dumplings stuffed with meat, andeither fried or poached

Labneh

Cheese made from strained yoghurt

Ma’amul

Biscuits stuffed with dried dates and walnuts

Mafghoussa

A popular Palestinian salad of grilled vegetables

Mejadra

Spicy lentils and rice

Muhallabieh

Milky rosewater pudding

Musabaha

Warm chickpeas with hummus

Shakshuka

A Tunisian dish of eggs and spicy tomato sauce that isserved all over Israel for breakfast or lunch

Sumac

A tart, lemony spice usually sold ground

Za’atar

Hyssop but usually sold as a spice mix of powdered leaves,ground sumac, toasted sesame seeds and salt

Food and Travel Review

The scent of jasmine amid centuries-old olive trees in the Garden of Gethsemane; flocks of fluttering dove-grey nuns; Israeli flags that mirror the blue and white of the celestial sky; Santiago Calatrava’s sleek ‘Bridge of Strings’; the perfectly made-up eyes of Arab girls sipping almond milk; pomegranate and tamarisk juice near the Damascus Gate…

Jerusalem comes in many guises. Layered with history, riven by politics and permeated with religious intensity, every inch of this city has been disputed, worshipped and fought over for millennia. Originally a small mountain stronghold among the cliffs and valleys of the surrounding hills, it was already ancient when David captured the citadel of Zion. The Old City walls remain intact – the skyline should be a wonder of the world – but the modern city to the west is an earthly counterpart to its heavenly twin. The spiritual and the secular exist side-by-side throughout, ancient ruins rubbing shoulders with contemporary architecture, secret courtyards looking up at soaring apartment blocks. The beautiful white stone of Jerusalem has an almost tangible existence of its own – its buildings glowing like luscious date honey as the sun withdraws behind the hills.

The focus of three major religions, Jerusalem’s diverse tribes follow their own path to God, signposted by a patchwork of Stars of David, towers and golden domes. Here is a babble of tongues, a maelstrom of beliefs and a million prayers summoned by bells and muezzin and voices that cry out from the wilderness. The intensity can be both inspirational and overwhelming. Jerusalem Syndrome, a recognised psychological condition brought about by religious excitement, takes its toll on pilgrims every year. Multiple images bombard the visitor: a Moroccan-Jewish busker playing an oud (similar to a lute); black-hatted hasidic men, heads bowed before the Western Wall; Ethiopian priests in mysterious candlelit chapels; shopkeepers reading their Koran aloud; sophisticated, ironically named ‘Margaritas Al-Jazeera’; melange coffee and strudel in the leafy Austrian Hospice, steps away from the slippery steps of Via Dolorosa; and hawkers of thorn crowns, olive-wood crucifixes and shot glasses embossed with the motto ‘I Jesus’.

Yet despite the undeniable tensions, people are people here, not labels, and there are daily examples of co-existence that bridge the fault lines. Jerusalemites like to tell the story about the years the city was divided between Israel and Jordan, when the armistice line, instead of today’s sleek light railway, ran past the French Hospital. A patient coughed so hard one day that her false teeth flew out the window, landing in no-man’s-land. A diplomatic mission ensued, with the dentures finally retrieved thanks to the intercession of the UN.

For all the contradictions and complexities, there is a common current of humanity here for those who choose to look for it. Children of all religious denominations splash through the spurting fountains in Teddy Park, Arab and Orthodox Jewish families picnic in green spaces, and the chic Mamilla shopping mall connects the shoppers of West and East Jerusalem in retail harmony.

As though far back in time, wrinkled Palestinian women sell fresh and dried bunches of herbs just inside the walls of the Old City. The Jerusalem Hills are covered with wild herbs and plants – hyssop, sumac, saltwort, chicory, wild garlic and rocket, beet leaves and rue. Even wild caper plants spring like parables from the boulders of the Herodian Western Wall. Deuteronomy cited seven species in the Land of Israel: dates, pomegranates, olives, figs, grapes, wheat and barley. Today, that list could be multiplied infinitely.

A re-awakened interest in native foods now informs much of the strong and bold, sweet and sour cooking of new Jerusalem cuisine: green almonds with fuzzy, peach-like skin; nutty roasted young wheat called freekeh; toasted sesame seeds; labneh (a creamy strained-yoghurt cheese); pomegranate molasses; and spice blends such as rose petals, cumin and cardamom.

After the first winter rains, green mallow is used like spinach. For Israelis, it holds a particular poignancy: during the 1948 siege of Jerusalem, people had little else to eat. When the fighting stopped, they were only too glad to abandon it until chefs such as Moshe Basson reintroduced it to a new generation eager to explore their local and biblical roots.

An Iraqi refugee who came to Jerusalem in 1951 as a small boy, Moshe learnt about wild herbs from the kitchens of Arab and Druze friends. Still an enthusiastic forager, he is astonishingly knowledgeable about botany, herbal medicine and religious lore. Jerusalem sage, which he stuffs like grape leaves, he explains is also called moriah, like the mountain, and looks like a Jewish candelabra (menorah) when it flowers. On the terrace of his restaurant, Eucalyptus, facing the Old City walls, Moshe grows a wide variety of edible plants so diners can pick their own salad. He also forages for recipes and stories. One of his most famous dishes is the theatrical maglube, a Palestinian speciality of chicken, rice and potatoes cooked in a huge pot then turned upside-down. There is no sense of appropriation even here, in this most political of cities. Rather his philosophy is about learning, sharing and the breaking of bread with others.

It is a view implicitly shared by Palestinian chef Aharon Alian, who is greeted by stallholders as he picks his way courteously through the congested alleys of the Arab Market. Past stalls brimming with vegetables, spices, seeds and nuts, shawarma and kebab stands, he points out the best brand of Nablus tahini, and we nibble loops of sesame bread sprinkled with ground hyssop from paper twists.

Over the legendary hummus of Abu Shukri he describes favourite feast-day dishes such as mansaff (whole stuffed lamb with almonds, pine nuts and rice) and vine leaves with tongue. Morning, he says, is the customary time for hummus, otherwise ‘It sits like concrete in your stomach’. For dessert we eat knafeh, super-sweet pastries made with goat’s cheese, vermicelli, pistachios and honey.

Time seems to stand still in the Old City, as well as at the Haba Bakery in the west, where Hassan and Zion, two Iraqis – a Muslim and a Jew – hand-bake foot-wide laffa flatbread in a clay oven to a recipe as old as the hills. Shaped on a convex taboon oven, the crisp, pillowy rounds are irresistible splashed with olive oil and sprinkled with za’atar, a common mix of hyssop, sumac and sesame. (Za’atar also happens to be the Hebrew word for hyssop.) Even more elemental is the goat’s cheese produced outside the city on the slopes of Mount Eitan, on the edge of nowhere. The white-bearded Shai Seltzer strikes a visionary, Old Testament figure as he awaits visitors. The world comes to Shai, not the other way round. For over 40 years, he has made an outstanding range of cheese, matured in a natural limestone cave, and has bred a variety of goat highly adapted to the habitat. The seasonal plants on which the animals graze are reflected in each cheese – and, according to Shai, each herb has a medicinal application.

The 21st century, however, is well under way in the animated Machane Yehuda market in a funky quarter of the western city. It has always been noted for wonderful home-grown fruit and vegetables, falafel stands with scores of dips and toppings, kosher meats and fish, as well as the charismatic Uzi-Eli, the Citron Man who sells potions based on the biblical fruit. Today there are also boutiques and artisan foods, including an excellent cheese and wine shop. A new baker has skills rooted in European tradition. Avishai Teller of Teller Bakery makes superb sourdough bread based on slow rising and fermentation, stone ovens and a yeast starter with raisins and apples. ‘On Fridays, we make 3,000 challas, the enriched, plaited Sabbath bread. It’s amazing. Jerusalemites are notoriously conservative in their tastes but things are changing,’ he says. In the evening, the market surges with energy: packed bars, cafés and scores of young Israelis living life with an intensity more usually found on Tel Aviv beaches than the sacred halls of King David’s City. Even more contemporary is The First Station, a centre for food, culture and entertainment, where there is a gourmet market alongside restaurants, exhibitions, Segway tours, concerts and religious services. Restaurateur Nir Zook brought his expertise to this railway station, built 120 years ago to connect Jerusalem and Jaffa. Seeking out produce from around the country – honey with the musky taste of the desert, spicy dried broad beans, rye toast fragrant with nuts, honey and black pepper, and organic vegetables grown by seven handsome brothers – Nir is creating a biblical story in itself. It’s also a good place to sample some of the Israeli wines now breaking onto the world stage. Sacramental wine has its place but here and in ultra-modern hotels such as the Mamilla (see ‘Where to Stay’) the virtually all Israeli wine lists are aimed at a keenly knowledgeable audience. The Judean Hills near Jerusalem are an emerging viticultural area in the eastern Mediterranean – wine was made here for the Hebrew Temple in antiquity. The renowned, family-run Domaine du Castel boutique winery is today leading the way, and its Castel Grand Vin is now one of the country’s most outstanding red wines. A proliferation of micro-breweries is also challenging the old favourite, Goldstar. Even Taybeh beer nearRamallah has developed a cult following as the best – and only – Palestinian brewery. In Mateh Yehuda, where David battled Goliath, the Srigim Brewery, run by two real-ale fanatics, produces an award-winning mix of wheat beer, dark ale and IPA.

Once, Jerusalem kugel and Jerusalem grill were the city’s flagship dishes. Visitors and pilgrims came for many reasons but eating was not one of them. In the last decade there has been a tectonic shift, epitomised by the brilliant, witty cooking and uproarious, high-voltage atmosphere of restaurants such as Machne Yuda, where the imaginative menu is sourced daily from the nearby market and the vibrancy and bonhomie are utterly infectious.

This brigade of dynamic tyros may now be setting the pace in Jerusalem but the acclaimed Ezra Kedem of Arcadia restaurant – and member of the bridge-building Chefs for Peace – was one of the first to use regional artisan produce. In his state-of-the-art studio, with stunning hill views, he thoughtfully reflects: ‘Something amazing is going on here. We have created our own culinary language based on Mediterranean culture but influenced by Middle Eastern herbs and spices, the Judean terroir and history.

‘In 2001, I created an aubergine carpaccio that has become ubiquitous, but it came out of my own life: every Friday evening, my mother roasted aubergines to make a salad for the Sabbath. This dish is my homage, and the core of what I do. Tel Aviv restaurants are exciting, but all go-go-go; in Jerusalem it is less superficial, and cooking traditions go deep. You struggle and fight but you can accomplish your dreams here in a profound way.’