Glebe House Hotel

Devon

The rolling hills of East Devon’s Cole Valley, overlapping as if they’re fighting to get into the panoramic landscape views from Glebe House, could almost be in Tuscany. Fitting, given this six-bedroom restaurant with rooms – or rooms with restaurant, given the building dates back to the 1800s – is inspired by Italian agriturismo. The farm-to-table ethos is strong within this 15-acre property with the Jurassic Coast on its doorstep, and all the fresh fish the Devon shoreline brings with it, not to mention organic farms nearby, and its own polytunnels for the most extensive of kitchen gardens.

The owners, chef Hugo Guest and his artist wife Olive, took over the Georgian property from Hugo’s parents who ran it as a b&b when he was growing up, and decided to bring a slice of the Italy they loved so much. Together with ex-River Cottage baker Sam Lomas, they now pickle, bake and make butter and yoghurt on site, and offer courses that vary from bread and pasta making to mackerel fishing, with twilight beach dinners, vineyard tours and still-life flower drawing. Rooms reveal Olive’s flair, with big splashes of colour coupled with carefully chosen fittings and furniture – from the Rose Room, with canopy bed, freestanding bath and period fireplace, to the yellow-ceilinged Morning Room. Food-wise, there’s full-on authentic Italian in the main restaurant plus a guest-only Kitchen Supper menu with cassoulets, homemade pies and ragùs. An outdoor heated pool and tennis courts complete the picture.

Doubles from £129. 01404 871276, glebehousedevon.co.uk

Words by Alex Mead.

This review featured in the May 2022 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.