Kings Head Hotel

24 Market Place, Cirencester

The Cotswolds’ hospitality bar has just received another upward nudge following the £7 million refurbishment of this long-term Cirencester fixture. Settling in for dinner is full of surprises. Good ones. Japanese-influenced, often locally sourced, dishes include meat fired and sealed on a robata grill. Smaller sharing and tasting portions include everything from baby squid with pickled garlic and chicory to scallop with wild mushrooms, and prime American sirloin, enhanced by a serious wine list.

The coaching inn’s latest incarnation (there has been one on this site since the 15th century) comprises 45 bedrooms laced through a sevenbuilding labyrinth. Their design is contemporary with classic touches, rather than falling back on the usual period-decor cliches. Expect muted hues and eclectic art – along with seamless integration of original fixtures and antiques. There’s a kinder price than many Cotswold addresses, plus relaxed, efficient service. The show-stopping ancient vault conceals a spa, gym and live music space. IB. Doubles from £135.