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Suffolk, England
The Suffolk brings together the
best of both worlds: the standards
and execution you’d expect from
London’s L’Escargot culinary
credentials (George Pell, the ex-
MD of the London institution is
behind this gem) and the cosiest
away-from-it-all seaside setting
that is Aldeburgh. Rooftop oyster
martinis with the best tempura
mussels are the only way to start a night before heading down for a taste of Suffolk. There may be a London influence, but they’ve
recruited exceptionally well locally,
in front of house, waiting and
young head chef Tom Payne, who really knows how to work his county’s offerings. Local côte
de boeuf is delicately handled
and crab is dressed well enough
for any table in the land – these
two stand out in a quality-driven,
local-where-sensible menu. Saving
space for dessert isn’t necessarily
an option, so pace yourself to
ensure you don’t miss anything.
When you head upstairs, stop
by the negroni, cheese and
charcuterie station – every home
should have one – before taking
in the sounds of the ocean in one
of six rooms with every trimming
you could want. And the Full
Suffolk breakfast delivers to the
same exacting standards that are
delivered throughout this perfect
gourmet bolthole. Doubles from £180, including breakfast.
Words by Alex Mead.
This article was taken from the May 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.
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