The Vineyard at Stockcross Hotel

The Vineyard, Stockcross, Newbury, Berkshire

Once you forgive the ill-advised flames blazing outside this converted 18th-century hunting lodge, you find a slick operation inspired by the vineyard lodges of California. While some aspects of business tycoon sir Peter Michael’s newbury hotel might not resonate so well in Berkshire, the pleasant staff, cheerful and luxurious rooms, gorgeous spa and unstuffy ambience certainly do. Feathers at this relais & châteaux property were ruffled this year when it was relegated from the Michelin Guide after the departure of its chef John Campbell. new(ish) boy Daniel Galmiche, formerly of Cliveden and L’ortolan, has been busying away to make his mark and presumably claw back the two lost stars. While Campbell was of the Ferran Adrià and Heston School of Cooking, Galmiche’s food is more classic: modern French and surprisingly light and healthy. Take a journey through his food by opting for the seven-course tasting menu where a succession of pretty plates reveal his close attention to the seasons. We began with a dainty bowl of velvety pumpkin velouté, topped with a full- flavoured froth of sainte Maure goat’s cheese, followed by terrine of duck liver foie gras with pistachio and squares of apple jelly. Scottish scallops and caramelised endive preceded a steamed fillet of John dory with a delicate glaze of honey and chilli before a sliced, roasted Balmoral estate venison fillet, beautifully pink and tender. A perfectly puffy, deep purple blueberry soufflé and a decent selection of seasonal farmhouse cheeses from the UK and France with delectable walnut bread capped off a fine feast. even if you opt for wines to match, don’t miss a perusal of the extremely comprehensive and good-value wine list which has a good glug of Californian wines, not surprising given Sir Peter owns a vineyard there. In the evening we visited Galmiche and he did a turn around the tables, effortlessly wooing regular customers with his French charm. Whether he gets the vineyard back in the red book remains to be seen, but he’s certainly having fun trying.

Foodie diversion take tea and cake and browse Berkshire-grown produce at cobbs Farm Shop and Kitchen (cobbsfarmshop.co.uk) in nearby Hungerford.

Come here for fine food, wines and relaxation close to London.

Details doubles from £135 per person per night. Dinner £80 for three courses and half a bottle of house wine.