Sun, sand and solitude – plenty of beach destinations fewer than five hours from the UK are hot in May, plus you’ll only be sharing them with locals, says Imogen Lepere. Whether you’re looking for clandestine coves, secretive swimming or luxurious resorts, we’ve got your spring holiday covered
The Forecast 24C, 9 hours’ sun and sea temps of 19C With its volcanic lunar landscapes, Fuerteventura appears to have more in common with parts of Africa (which is only 100km away) than Spain. Saharan winds carry a warm, dry breeze to its 150-plus beaches, meaning the area is filled with idyllic, sun-soaked spots. Vast swathes of white sand characterise the area around Corralejo, which lies on the north-eastern edge of the island and is sheltered by volcanic outcrops.
If you’re looking for a secretive swimming spot, the national park has over 2,600ha of curvaceous sand dunes that roll down into the turquoise sea. The winds that whip this wild stretch are perfect for surfing, but hunker down among the dunes and it will be reduced to a refreshing breeze. May makes for an ideal time to explore the island’s intriguing landscape on foot, and there are plenty of coastal routes around, including an especially scenic trail between Caleta de Fuste and Nuevo Horizonte. Strike inland and you’ll discover moody hamlets nestled in the mountains. The nearby village of Vega de rio Palmas has a few excellent bodegas, but we recommend Restaurante Don Antonio, where local goat’s cheese is served with slices of cured, smoky serrano ham.
WHERE TO STAY Avanti Hotel has gleaming white suites with canopied beds and a dazzling terrace with spectacular sea views that go on for miles. Doubles from £112. http://avantihotelboutique.com. Hotel Rural Mahoh is a rustic country house in a beautifully peaceful hamlet, 13km inland from Corralejo. Even though it is cut off from the resort’s tourist tracks, La Oliva was once the island’s political capital and its traces remain in the historic, crumbling buildings. Doubles from £46. http://mahoh.com
The forecast 21C, 10 hours’ sun and sea temps of 18C For wild beaches and traditional mountain villages, you can’t beat Cap Corse, a secluded peninsula stretching 40km from the northern tip of the island. Imposing mountains slice through the centre, giving the east, west and north coasts distinctive characters. The gentle east rolls langourously into the sea and is dotted with quaint fishing villages, which cling like barnacles to its rocky outcrops. Erbalunga’s shingle bay is flanked by once-grand houses that have something of the haunting quality of Venice. The rest of the village is a cheerful tangle of fishing vessels, tempting courtyards and its crumbling 16th-century Genoese tower. Le Pirate has long been the jewel in its gourmet crown. Even in May you’ll need to make a reservation, but the Michelin-starred menus and sea views make the extra planning worth it.
Over on the west coast, you’ll find villages perching on rocky cliffs and mountains plummeting into the Mediterranean Sea. The Désert des Agriates national park, a vast stretch of maquis-covered peaks is also found to the west and is home to some spectacular deserted beaches. Among them is Loto, best reached by boat from the stylish port of Saint-Florent. From there you can walk for an hour over to Saleccia, a secluded stretch of champagne- coloured and deliciously soft sand.
Follow the hairpin roads around Cap Corse’s villages and into the valleys, and you’ll discover deep forests filled with olive and pine trees alongside colourful carpets of maquis, a native shrub with an enticing sandalwood scent. Take the half-day hike from Pozzo to Monte Stello for wonderful views overlooking the ocean and surrounding scenery.
WHERE TO STAY
U Palazzu Serenu features nine minimalist rooms and a beautiful pool overlooking the Gulf of St Florent. Doubles from £249. http://upalazzuserenu.com. Boutique hotel Castel Brando, housed in a 19th-century mansion near Erbalunga’s medieval harbour, offers airy rooms, with authentic decor and terracotta tile floors. Doubles from £101. http://castelbrando.com
THE FORECAST 25C, 12 hours’ sun and sea temps of 17C Stretching along Portugal’s southernmost coast, the Algarve’s eastern side is known for its idyllic sand islands, which float in the waters of Ria Formosa Natural Park. The water is noticeably warmer in the calm lagoon than in the western Algarve – a bonus for keen swimmers visiting in the mild month of May.
Over on the island of Tavira sits Praia de Santa Luzia, a long stretch of sand which remains pleasingly empty, bar a few straw umbrellas. Catch a boat across the bay to Santa Luzia; its white-washed streets are besieged by sun-worshippers in high season, but in May the only people you’ll be sharing them with are the local fishermen. Sample their catch at Casa do Polvo Tasquinha, a stylish restaurant with views across the Ria Formosa lagoon.
Cacela Velha beach lies 11km east of Tavira and is an ideal spot for swimming. This petite hamlet is one of the prettiest on the Algarve, home to cobbled streets shaded by orange trees, alongside the idyllic Casa Azul, which serves delicious oysters.
Further west, biscuit-coloured Praia de Albandeira is something of a local secret – probably because you have to scramble down a steep cliff path to get to it. It’s worth the effort though, especially in May, when you’ll hear nothing but the sound of seagulls flying through a cloudless sky and the rushing sounds of the Atlantic waves lapping up on the shore. If the sun gets too much, sip an ice-cold, slightly effervescent vinho verde at the rustic beach bar, a local favourite set among the jagged rocks.
‘Cacela Velha beach is ideal for swimming. This petite hamlet is one of the prettiest on the Algarve with cobbled streets shaded by orange trees’
WHERE TO STAY Head to Convento, a splendid converted townhouse that’s a short water taxi ride from Ria Formosa. Hand- painted tiles and archways adorn the courtyard around which its rooms are built, and the rooftop terrace provides beautiful views across the lagoon. Doubles from £78. conventoolhao.com. Tavira House is a colonial mansion turned bed and breakfast in the beating heart of the old town, where decor inspired by delightful local wild flowers lends a unique charm to its rooms. Doubles from £67. tavirahousehotel.com
THE FORECAST 24C, 8 hours’ sun and sea temps of 19C Crete’s glorious beaches made it a mecca for hippies in the Sixties and May is the perfect time to enjoy them without the tour groups that descend in summer. Elafonisi, on the west of the island, and Balos (in the north) appear candy-floss pink in spring due to tiny organisms that feed on the sand. In the south Mýrtos offers guaranteed shelter from fresh breezes or for white powder to rival the Caribbean try Vai (in the east), which is bordered by luscious palm groves.
Mist-wreathed mountains, dramatic gorges softened by purple oleander flowers and an eclectic mix of Renaissance and Turkish architecture make inland Crete the most varied of the Greek Islands. By May, most of the oranges have been
harvested and are being sold in sacks on the side of the road by grandmothers dressed in widow’s black. When suppertime beckons make like the locals and head to Ippokambos near Heraklion’s bustling harbour for traditional mezes such as snails and beetroot dipped in melted cheese.
WHERE TO STAY Casa Delfino is a boutique hotel in a tastefully restored 17th century mansion just behind the harbour in Chania’s old town. The property has been owned by the same family for six generations and is packed full of quirky antiques. Doubles from £146. casadelfino.com. Lato Boutique Hotel is a contemporary hideaway with panoramic views of Heraklion’s harbour including the venetian fortress that stands guard at the mouth of the bay. Doubles from £71. lato.gr
THE FORECAST 20C, 9 hours’ of sun and sea temps of 19C For decades the ochre beaches of Essaouira were the sole preserve of the bohemian rich; Jimi Hendrix and Mick Jagger were among those who sunned themselves on its shores. That all changed when a direct flight from London was introduced last year, reducing the journey time to less than four hours, but in May it still feels like a well-kept secret.
Take a stroll along Plage Iftan and the only people who’ll disturb you are a few elderly men offering camel rides. Enormous and perfectly flat, Essaouira Bay is set by the town’s honey-hued ramparts. The vast expanse of sandy beach is ideal for windsurfing or horse riding along although in spring you’re more likely to see colourful painted fishing boats interspersed on its waters.
Designed by the architect who was behind Britanny’s St-Malo, Essaouira town has a distinctly French feel to it, though once inside the fortified walls you’ll find Morocco at its most welcoming. Try a traditional massage and ghassoul (clay, seaweed or argan paste wrap) at Hammam Mounia, or venture into the vibrant souk where Berber carpets jostle for space with fragrant spices and fresh mint. When dusk falls, embrace Essaouira’s liberal attitude at one of its shisha bars or venture to one of its bustling late-night restaurants. Taros Café is an art gallery, restaurant and cocktail bar that’s well worth a visit. People-watch from the terrace before settling on the low-slung couches and ordering a fragrant lamb tagine.
‘Taros Café is a vibrant art gallery, restaurant and cocktail bar. People-watch from the terrace before ordering a fragrant lamb tagine’
WHERE TO STAY Heure Bleue Palais feels like an exotic members’ club. Its design draws on Moorish influences and includes antique fireplaces, sumptuous tapestries and a Hammam alongside its 33 bedrooms. Doubles from £194. heure-bleue.com. Opt to stay at Madada Mogador for a laid-back retreat nestled behind the old town’s walls, where rooms are decorated in colourful ethnic prints. It has a stunning rooftop terrace that’s certainly not to be missed. Doubles from £89. madada.com
THE FORECAST 23C, 12 hours’ sun and sea temps of 18C Located at the heart of the Mediterranean, this beguiling island is so well-known for its diving and history that it’s often overlooked as a beach destination. Ask any local though and they’ll point you in the direction of secret swimming spots and clandestine coves, where red sand beaches sit beside crystal-clear waters. One of the joys of this pocket-sized island is that nothing is more than a pleasant 30 minutes’ drive away. Although its capital Valletta is on the east coast, the numerous beaches and utterly charming villages of the north coastal area are easily accessible.
The horseshoe-shaped bay of Ghajn Tuffieha can only be reached by a gently rolling footpath flanked by tamarisk trees and samphire, and in May it’s often deserted. Its neighbour, Golden Bay, is the most famous beach on the island thanks to its butterscotch sand, while St Peter’s Pool on the Delimara peninsula is a wonderful place to while away an afternoon. Follow the main road as if you were driving to Marsaxlokk Bay and look out for a wooden signpost pointing to the footpath; cross a field covered with caper bushes and you’ll arrive at the ink blue inlet lined by chalky rocks flat enough and comfortable enough to spread your towel on.
May is the ideal month to explore Malta’s myth-seeped past without having to fight your way through crowds of history buffs in the heat. The island was referred to in both Homer’s Odyssey and the Bible and it’s home to several mysterious sights, including the Hypogeum (a maze of underground chambers) and the Il-Maqluba sinkhole, a natural cave where wild flowers blossom in spring.
When dusk falls, lose yourself in the tangle of Valletta’s ancient streets. The Medina restaurant (in the heart of the Medina district) has a covered courtyard where you can enjoy traditional dishes such as linguine with sea urchin and clams.
‘Ask any local and they’ll point you to secret swimming spots and clandestine coves, where red sand beaches sit beside crystal-clear waters’
WHERE TO STAY Valletta Vintage is an 18th-century townhouse with three studios, mid-century furniture and quirky contemporary pieces, such as string hammocks swaying in the windows. Doubles from £105. vallettavintage.com. Stylish Casa Ellul is the only luxury hotel within the bastion walls of Valletta. The building dates back 400 years and rooms combine traditional Maltese design with luxurious touches such as inviting roll top baths. Doubles from £169. casaellul.com
THE FORECAST 24C, 12 hours’ sun and sea temps of 20C Sit very still on Lara Beach in May and you’re likely to see endangered loggerhead turtles emerging from the Mediterranean to lay their eggs under the fine golden shingle. Explore the sea caves along the coast and you may also surprise colonies of seals. Clinging to the north-west tip of the island, the Akamas Peninsula covers 230sq km and is entirely undeveloped. Wild and untouched; this part of the island feels very remote from the chaos which engulfed the rest of the country during the financial crash of 2013. There are no main roads on this part of the island, but brave the dirt tracks in a car or mountain bike and you’ll be rewarded by dazzling bays and remote beaches at the foot of dramatic limestone cliffs. The west side of the peninsula is studded with unnamed gems between Meleti (where the peninsula meets the rest of Cyprus) and Lara, which you can reach by driving to Pegia and then to Agios. On the north-east coast, Fontana Amoroza is a sheltered bay that offers fabulous snorkelling. The water in the blue lagoon is so clear you can see right through it to the pearly sand below. In the sweltering heat of high season its turquoise water is besieged by pleasure boats, but in May the only other people will be the odd local going for a refreshing dip after work. The best way to reach it is by boat from Latchi.
Inland, the Baths of Aphrodite at Latchi are particularly seductive in May. This beautiful spot is shaded by vines, screened by ferns and the last of the winter rains flow down in a waterfall.
Build on the romantic theme by packing a bottle of rosé from Ezousa winery and some fresh bread with tahini, hummus and talattouri and head to Petra tou Romiou beach at sunset. A large rock in the water was once thought to be the birthplace of Aphrodite and the limestone turns rosy pink in the evening light.
‘Pack a bottle of rosé from Ezousa winery and some fresh bread with tahini and hummus and head to Petra tou Romiou beach at sunset’
WHERE TO STAY Anassa Thanos is a lux resort on the Akamas Peninsular with views of Latsi Bay. Service is exceptional – there is one member of staff to every guest. If you need a day off from the sun its Thalassa Spa has treatments inspired by the sea including salt water spray massages and seaweed wraps. Doubles from £370. anassa.com. Souli Beach Hotel is a great value option on Latchi’s pretty harbour, just 4km from the Akamas National Park. Doubles from £47. soulibeachhotel.com
THE FORECAST 22C, 14 hours’ sun and sea temps of 20C If you’re looking for an Eastern European beach holiday, Croatia is so 2012 – Montenegro is ready for its time in the sun. Just two hours’ picturesque drive from Dubrovnik, its magnificent Budva Riviera has 35km of limestone cliffs crowned by fragrant pine forests that plunge into the inky Adriatic.
Sveti Stefan is an islet attached to the mainland by a thin spit. The curving pink-sand beach on one side of the isthmus has stunning views, while Queen’s Beach was a favourite spot of Queen Marija Karadjordjevic because of the lush curtain of olive and cedar trees which creates the sense of total privacy.
The town of Sveti Stefan itself is on the mainland and you can enjoy a taste of the luxury islet without the hefty price tag at The Olive Tree, Aman’s casual restaurant, which is set just back from the beach. Tuck into fish grilled over olive wood as you drink in the staggering views from the terrace. Just 3km south, Drobni Pijesak is a wonderfully rustic contrast to Sveti Stefan. A steep cliff path keeps most tourists at bay and in May you can expect no more than a handful of locals luxuriating on the fine yellow sand.
Nine and a half kilometres east of Sveti Stefan, Budva’s town beach is a cheerful golden curve studded with stripy deckchairs. Budva itself has plenty of sights; it’s an intriguing time warp of communist era cars and a honeycomb old town studded with atmospheric eateries. Knez Konoba’s menu has plenty of local interest – look out for air-dried ham, sir iz ulja (cheese that’s wind-dried on nearby mountain tops) and rare finger mussels which have a silken texture.
WHERE TO STAY Aman Group bought the entirety of Sveti Stefan’s 15th-century village and transformed it into a spectacular resort. The cottages that line the cobbled alleyways house chic modern furnishings and sea view patios shaded by bougainvillea. Doubles from £590. aman.com. Hotel Adrovic is a charmingly old-fashioned hotel overlooking Sveti Stefan’s harbour. Expect interestingly patterned curtains and sunny balconies. Doubles from £82. hoteladrovic.com
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