Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen Paris, France
SAT, 9AM-6PM; SUN, 10AM-6PM
Once and enclave of Paris's petty thieves, and pickpockets, the rabbit-warren alleyways that comprise the Puces de Saint-Ouen are now a glorious hunting
ground for antiques experts in the city’s
north. The 15 districts of the market are
too vast to cover in a day, so be selective.
Among the Louis XVI dining chairs and
belle époque lampshades, head to
Marcheé Dauphine for sepia photographs
of the city, while boxes of vintage Hermès
scarves to dig through await in Marcheé
Serpette. For a post-market food stop,
avoid the heaving cafés nearby and head
back towards the centre of Paris. An easy
20-minute stroll away is L’Esquisse (Rue
Marcadet), a laid-back neighbourhood
bistro where chef Laeëtitia Bret plays with
the classics. Highlights include trotter
tacos and date-stuffed rabbit tartelettes.