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Under African Skies - Africa

If you’re yearning to be on the water’s edge and want something different this year, head to the coast of Africa for pristine beaches, gin-clear waters and unique flavours on the plate, says Richard Holmes

This article was taken from the April 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.

Mombasa Kenya

Think of Kenya and your mind wanders to the Masai Mara, or the Lamu Archipelago. But set your sights further south: to Mombasa, golden sands and turquoise waters, it’s worth making time to explore the historic city itself. This charismatic port has seen in the cobbled streets and crumbling architecture. In Mombasa’s charming Old Town, winding alleyways lead to the tumble-down written on Mombasa’s menus too; built on a foundation of spices the lateen dhows that can still be seen offshore today. As you wander, stop for a packet of viazi karai, the crunchy deep-fried potato pieces popular with locals.

Diani Beach, with 25km of picture-perfect beaches and choice of chic hotels. Kenya’s tropical climate means year-round sunshine and warm weather come as standard, making it ideal for feet-up relaxation. But for ocean enthusiasts, there is also stunning alibarbours.com is famed for oysters, prawns and lobster, while at Blue Marlin bluemarlinbeachrestaurant.com it’s the fresh sushi and signature tuna tataki you’ll want to order.

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Travel Details

Book into Alfajiri Villas (from £550pp including meals) or try The Zubeida (doubles from £265). alfajirivillas.com thezubeida.com

Dakhla Morocco

It takes a little effort to get to Dakhla, but it’s with good reason that savvy travellers keep flocking to this small beach community set on a narrow peninsula that, at its widest, measures just 7km across. Home to just 100,000 people - Casablanca bursts at the seams with three milion - Dakhla is a perfect option for slowing down after all the bustle to the north. Thanks to the dramatic peninsula jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean Dakhla's landscape is dominated by the ocean; fringed with beaches lifted stright from your Robinson Crusoe fantasy. Dakhla's long summer days mean there's plenty of time to indulge in the activities it's long been famous for. It's a spot where surfing, kite-surfing and windsurfing are famously reliable, as is shore-based fishing if you fancy casting a line for your own dinner. Wildlife abounds here too, and at the southern tip of the peninsula you're likely to spot flamingos, while turtles, seals and dolphins also make an appearance. Or simply wander these powder-soft sands: they're beaches that dish up all the deliciously lonely walks you could ask for, along with restaurants of which Defoe's castaway could only dream. In step with the laid-back atmosphere of Dakhla, eating out here tends to be a low-key affair, leaning heavily into authentic Moroccan plates. One option is Le Restaurant du Palais Rhoul lepalaisrhouldakhla.com which serves fresh Moroccan meals just steps from the beach.

Caravan Dakhla Naish Kite House

Travel Details

Book into Caravan by Habitas Dakhla (doubles from £222), or try La Tour d'Eole (doubles from £276). ourhabitas.com latourdeole.com

Hurghada Egypt

Hurghada has come a long way in the past century. What was once a quiet Egyptian fishing village - dried fish waiting to be sold to nomadic caravans moving up from the Nile Valley - is today a vibrant coastal resort on the idyllic shores of the Red Sea. An echo of the past can be found in the El Dahar bazaar, home to a colourful collection of spices and souvenires. Beyond the bazaar - today the 32km coastline is home to luxury resorts with private beaches and prime spots for sun and ocean views. Throw in warm seas, powder-soft beaches and year-round sunny weather and you have the makings of a perfect beach break. That's especially true if you're an active traveller: the Red Sea has long been a spot beloved of scuba divers, due to the myriad sealife that call these perfect waters home. Some of the wrecks and reefs here rank among the best dive spots in Egypt, and while Giftun Islands are a popular starting point, you can avoid some of the crowds and enjoy better visibility in Makadi Bay or Sahl Hasheesh. Looking for some activity above the surface? Nearby Soma Bay offers perfect conditions for windsurfing, kitesurfing and paddleboarding.

Depending on your hotel, you'll likely have direct access to a beach - and few will begrudge you a few days spent soaking up the African sun. But Hurghada's also a place worthy of exploration, particularly on the plate. Seek out local cuisine at Sofra Oriental (in Jaz Makadi Saraya Resort) 00 20 65 3590120 or Kan Zaman 00 20 12 08400409 in nearby El Gouna. For more traditional Egyptian cuisine with a seafood bent, look to Al Halka Fish Restaurant 00 20 10 0456 2800 a short walk from the glamorous marina.

The Chedi El Gouna Red Sea Pool 11

Travel Details

Book into Serry Beach Resort (doubles from £201) or try Tucana Resort (doubles from £183). You can also head along the coast for Casa Cook El Gouna (doubled from £196), La Maison Bleue El Gouna (doubled from £274) or The Chedi El Gouna (doubles from £160).

theserry.com sunrise-resorts.com casacook.com lamaison-bleue.com chedielgouna.com

Paternoster South Africa

While local legends has it that this old fishing village was named for the prayers uttered by shipwrecked sailor who washed ashore here, you'll give your own words of thanks for discovering this charming food-focused bolthole on the west coast of South Africa. It's a village as famous for its whitewashed buildings and cerulean seas as it is for a clucth of restaurants turning out some of the finest hyper-local cuisine the country has to offer. While Cape Town may claim the lion's share of the limelight when it comes to coastal escapes, Paternoster is the hidden secret the locals would rather keep to themselves.

A visit to Paternoster is about leaving footprints on untouched beaches, looking for whales migrating in the waters offshore or wandering through the nearby nature reserves to admire spring flowers. All of which are fine ways to work up an appetite for lunch or dinner at the delightful seaside restaurants. The most famous is Wolfgat wolfgat.co.za housed in a historic cottage. From the tables out on the terrace - where views take in those turquoise waters and a sweep of beach - you'll also be peeking into the pantry of chef Kobus van der Merwe, who is passionate about foraged food on his menu of Strandveld cuisine. Dune spinach, limpets and wild kelp all make an appearance, while wines come largely from West Coast cellars. This surreal venue along with Kobus's uncompromising use of local ingredients - many foraged within walking distance of the kitchen - have earned Wolfgat recognition from some of the world's most coveted restaurant awards. And, with just two dozen seats, you'll need to book well in advance. Happily, other options abound. Leeto Restaurant, in the Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel offers refined South African West Coast cuisine, and both Gaaitjie gaaitjie.co.za and The Noisy Oyster 00 27 22 752 2196 are perennial favourites with in-the-know locals.

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Travel Details

Book into Abalone Hotel (doubles from £105) or try Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel (doubles from £147). abalonehotel.co.za strandloperocean.com

Hammamet Tunisia

Just a three-hour direct flight from London, and with weather ranging from balmy to hot just about year-round, it's little wonder Tunisia remains one of the best beach esapes Africa has to offer. And, set on the south-eastern corner of the Cap Bon peninsula - an hour's drive from the aiport - the resort town of Hammamet tricks all the right boxes for a laid-back beach break. And it's certainly not all about anodyne resorts. This former Roman colony is packed with history, from the 9th-century seafront Kasbah fort to the winding alleyways of the old medina that beg for lazy exploration. But Hammamet - 'The Baths' in Arabic - has long been a place for people to kick back. Through the centuries little has changed and Hammamet remains famous as much for its soft beahces, warm seas and nightlife.

There's no end of ways to spend your days here. Ease into the holiday with a few hours on a deck chair beneath thatch umbrellas or, for a culture fix, city-hop northbound up the coast to Kerkouane. Here, the Unesco-listed, former Punic settlement showcases the world's best preserved Carthaginian architecture.

All you have to do is wander out of your hotel room on to the cobbled-lined streets for some authentic Tunisian dining. While on first inspection, Restaurant Lella Fatma 00 216 72 283 600 may not seem an obvious choice, step inside and you'll find an array of classic Tunisian dishes and sea fare freshly caught locally. A step upmarket is Le Barberousse 00 216 72 280 037 which has spectacular views from the window seats and a menu that subtly blends European, Mediterranean and Tunisian culinary traditions. It's popular, so book ahead.

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Travel Details

Book into The Orangers Garden Villas & Bungalows (doubles from £174) or try La Badria (double from £63). orangersgarden.com labadira.com

Vilanculos Mozambique

Set roughly midway along the 3,000km coastline of Mozambique, you'll find the laid-back town of Vilanculos. While the idyllic Bazaruto Archipelago just off shore has long drawn travellers, this gateaway town to the archipelago is now making a name for itself. Central to the appeal is the low-key feel. Few buildings break the skyline of palm trees and the vista of blue seas and sailing dhows suggest a land little changed by time. Relaxed it may be, but it's a corner of Mozambique that draws in active travellers: start the day with a horse ride along the vast sand-flats that unfurl at low tide or hire a sailing dhow and local captail to explore the sand bars and meandering channels that Bazaruto is famous for. Longer trips offer the chance to slip overboard and snorkel above pristine coral reefs, or head into deeper waters for thrilling scuba adventures. The archipelago is also home to endangered dugong.

Back on dry land, the Vilanculos Market offers an authentic Africa expereince as vendors hawk everything from colourful capulana cloth and fresh herbs, to fish straight from local boats - chances are some of that catch will end up on your plate come evening.

Vilanculos has a remarkable choice of restaurants. Discover Mozambican cuisine - which blends Portuguese and Indigenous flavours, with plenty of chilli - at the unpretentious Casa Mika Café 00 258 84 686 9870 where the day's catch is served al fresco. Casbah casacabanabeach.com offers spectacular views and possibly the best prawns in the area, enjoyed fresh off a charcoal grill with generous helpings of garlic, chilli and local pao breads.

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Travel Details

Book into Sussurro (bungalows from £700, minimum 2 nights) or try Bahia Mar Boutique Hotel (doubles from £170). sussurro.co bahiamarclub.com

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