Albariño

The Iberian white with a penchant for the coast makes the perfect seafood partner. Matteo Furlan, head sommelier at The Ritz London, picks four favourite albariños

The Grape

Grown by the sea on the north-western corner of the Iberian Peninsula, with roots in both Galicia, Spain, and Portugal – where it’s known as alvarinho – the grape’s thick skin and hardy vines allow it to withstand the cooler climate of the coast and high altitudes. Although its origins are ancient, dating back as far as the Romans, it rose to prominence in the late 19th century, paving the way for it to become Spain’s favourite white wine.

The Taste

Dry with a high acidity, but flush with citrus notes of lime, lemon and grapefruit, there’s a subtle saltiness, thanks to its coast-loving vines. You’ll also find ripe stone fruit flavours such as peach, and floral notes.

The Pairings

It’s with good reason that Galicia is synonymous with seafood, and completing the perfect trio is a glass of chilled albariño. The salinity and citrus lends itself to basically anything from the ocean, however it’s prepared, be it ceviche, fish and chips, sushi or any shellfish you care to mention. It’s a natural pairing for anything grilled, and not just octopus but vegetables too – including, of course, padrón peppers – not to mention lighter meats such as chicken.

The Vines

Aside from Spain and Portugal, albariño is also being grown successfully in the cooler areas of California, New Zealand, Argentina, Chile and even Uruguay.

2020 ALBARIÑO, PAZOS DE LUSCO, RÍAS BAIXAS, SPAIN

‘Lusco’ means ‘sunset’ in the local Galician dialect, and this is a crisp, bright, rich albariño with aromas of fresh herbs, lemon, tropical fruit and floral notes. Best enjoyed young, with fish, charcuterie or vegetarian dishes.

Available at:£15.50, ocado.com

2020 ALBARIÑO, PAZOS DE LUSCO, RÍAS BAIXAS, SPAIN

2021 RESERVE ALBARIÑO, BODEGA GARZON, MALDONADO, URUGUAY

A beautiful wine from the top producer in Uruguay, showing great complexity on the nose, with notes of grapefruit, lemon, blossom, peach and nectarine. Very mineral, almost salty, on the palate, with incredible length on the aftertaste.

Available at:£16.95, ndjohn.co.uk

2021 RESERVE ALBARIÑO, BODEGA GARZON, MALDONADO, URUGUAY

2021 ALVARINHO VINHO VERDE, QUINTA DE SOALHEIRO, MINHO, PORTUGAL

Crisper and fresher than its Spanish cousin, with aromas of pear, apple, crisp lemon zest and lime. On the palate it is soft, with lingering acidity and great finesse.

Available at:£15.08, drinksandco.co.uk

2021 ALVARINHO VINHO VERDE, QUINTA DE SOALHEIRO, MINHO, PORTUGAL

2011 FOUDRE ALBARIÑO, ANGEL SEQUEIROS, RÍAS BAIXAS, SPAIN

Vinified in stainless still tanks and matured in oak barrels, giving it complexity and richness. Aromas of ripe tropical fruit, stone fruits, nuts and smoke, with full body, depth and character.

Available at:£53.10, hedonism.co.uk

2011 FOUDRE ALBARIÑO, ANGEL SEQUEIROS, RÍAS BAIXAS, SPAIN

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