Bacchus

This crisp, fresh cross is German in origin but English by nature, says Ben McCormark

THE GRAPE

Named after the Roman god of wine, bacchus was created in Germany in 1933 by crossing riesling with Müller-Thurgau and silvaner to grow on the coolest sites. Due to its early-ripening qualities, it has flourished as England’s signature grape, adopted as the UK’s answer to sauvignon blanc.

THE TASTE
Fragrant, with elderflower and English hedgerow scents of hawthorn and nettle, it has a lively palate of green apple and gooseberry. In Germany, it has the potential for high sugar and low acidity, while the cooler English climate lifts the acidity to ensure zesty freshness. Hot summers spell success for British bacchus, softening the green, grassy notes into something more ripe and tropical.


THE PAIRINGS
Its piercing freshness is perfect for an alfresco aperitif or to match native fish and seafood: lobster salad, dressed crab, a shellfish platter or poached salmon with watercress sauce. Its sauvignon blanc character suits green asparagus and creamy goats’ cheeses too.

THE VINES
Having arrived in England in 1973, it’s now the UK’s fourth most-planted grape variety, thriving in southern regions from East Anglia to the West Country and as far north as Lincolnshire. Although English sparkling wine has established a world-class reputation with the champagne varietals of chardonnay, meunier and pinot noir, growers love bacchus for its reliability.

2022 ENGLISH BACCHUS, BOWLER & BROLLY, DEVON, UK

Clean-tasting and crisp, this citrus-dominated bacchus, made for Aldi by Sarah Massey of Lyme Bay Winery, is a good-value example of why the grape is compared to sauvignon blanc and makes an excellent lemon-and-lime aperitif.

Available at:£9.99, Aldi (in-store only)

2022 ENGLISH BACCHUS, BOWLER & BROLLY, DEVON, UK

2021 BACCHUS DRY, CAMEL VALLEY, CORNWALL, UK

Lemon flavour in all its forms – the fruit, zest and lemongrass – is to the fore in this vivaciously refreshing benchmark bacchus from one of the most famous names in English winemaking, with keen acidity tempered by soft aromas of elderflower.

Available at:£16.99, waitrosecellar.com

2021 BACCHUS DRY, CAMEL VALLEY, CORNWALL, UK

2020 BACCHUS, HOFFMANN & RATHBONE, SUSSEX, UK

A stylish, elegantly modern wine is as crisp and juicy as a spoonful of fresh passion fruit but trails an unmistakably English scent of cow parsley. Hoffmann & Rathbone are negociants rather than growers, sourcing bacchus grapes from across Sussex.

Available at:£23, davywine.co.uk

2020 BACCHUS, HOFFMANN & RATHBONE, SUSSEX, UK

AND IF YOU WANT TO SPLASH OUT… 2020 KIT’S COTY BACCHUS, CHAPEL DOWN, KENT, UK

Chapel Down produces seven bacchus wines and this is its flagship, wild-fermented and aged for nine months in old French oak, typical of the pioneering spirit of youthful head winemaker Josh Donaghay-Spire. Expect a rich, oaked palate of ripe melon, lychee and peach with bacchus’ signature crisp finish.

Available at:£34.95, masterofmalt.com

AND IF YOU WANT TO SPLASH OUT… 2020 KIT’S COTY BACCHUS, CHAPEL DOWN, KENT, UK

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