Chardonnay

Varying wildly from New World to Old, this Marmite of wines is anything but dull. Julien Beltzung, executive sommelier of the newly Michelin-starred The Glenturret Lalique in Crieff, Perthshire, picks his four favourite chardonnays

The Grape

Relatively easy to grow and adapting well to different climates, the grape itself is relatively neutral, with fresh appley aromas. What makes it special is how well it expresses the place where it’s grown. You’ll tend to find tropical fruit flavours in the New World and more classic, subtle, crisp and steely versions in the Old.

The Taste

Techniques such as oak ageing (which adds vanilla, toast or toffee aromas) bring layers of flavour and complexity. From the Old World, expect citrus, flinty mineral edges and touches of white pepper and creamy oak; New World wines can be buttery and overly oaky, with the likes of grapefruit and lime.

The Pairings

An oaky New World bottle can stand up to smoked fish or full- flavoured guinea fowl or pheasant in a way other whites can’t. Old World classics are better for unsmoked fish, octopus, lobster, crab and oysters. It’s generally a good match for egg dishes.

The Vines

Pick a wine region – Old or New World – and, odds are, chardonnay is grown there. Besides its Burgundy home, look for the likes of Margaret River, Australia; Mendoza, Argentina; Napa Valley and Sonoma Coast, California; and Puglia, Italy.