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Chenin
This high-acidity wine with plentiful fruit flavours began South Africa’s wine story
THE GRAPE
Used for dry whites, sparkling wines and even dessert wines, chenin has a lengthy history dating back to the 9th century and the Anjou region of France’s Loire Valley. But it’s also been intrinsically linked with the South African wine industry, with the first chenin vines planted in 1655 by the pioneering Dutchman Jan Van Riebeeck.
THE TASTE
Often with a high acidity, it offers a wide range of flavours dependent on the style
so you could find yourself drinking in quince, pear and peach, and even tarter fruit flavours at the more dry end; mango, honeydew melon and passion fruit on the sweeter side.
THE PAIRINGS
To quote this very magazine, the acidity in some chenins can ‘cut through your average tub of English lard’, but your best option is seafood: crabs, lobsters, raw oysters, mussels; and the fruit flavours also helps level out rich fish dishes. Light creamy sauces can be handled amicably and it’s a wonderful dining partner for peppered or spiced dishes.
THE VINES
Given the heritage, South Africa and the Loire Valley remain fine choices, with the former particular strong on the blend front. Although they lead the field by far for this grape, other contenders include Argentina, USA, New Zealand and Australia
2019 PEACOCK WATERKLOOF, STELLENBOSCH, SOUTH AFRICA
The wines of Peacock Ridge come from the finest sites of the WO Stellenbosch appellation, made using sustainable viticulture. This is a wild yeast, full-bodied chenin blanc with intriguing aromas of herbs. On the palate you’ll find notes of honey and rich fruit.
Available at:£10.45, kvmwine.com
NV VOUVRAY, LA DILETTANTE, DOMAINE BRETON, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE
The makers champion the cause of biodynamic viticulture – no mean feat in the northerly climes of the Loire. In this rich and luscious sparkling Vouvray brioche, peach and pear are the main aromas. Bright acidity, creamy texture on the palate.
Available at:£22, gnarlyvines.co.uk
2019 EL BANDITO NOIR, TESTALONGA, SWARTLAND, SOUTH AFRICA
Craig Hawkins’ wines are from low-yielding vines and wild ferments, and this orange wine is elegant and fascinating –a blend of unique aromas of honey, bread, mature fruits and wonderful acidity, fruit concentration and deep minerality on the palate.
Available at:£28, buonvino.co.uk
018 SAVENNIERES COULÉE DE SERRANT NICOLAS JOLY, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE
One of the world's most noble whites. It’s deep, complex, rich, mineral, elegant, profound and moreish. Though ageing is recommended the wines are becoming more approachable in their youth, highlighted by the glistening acidity of the chenin.
Available at:£92, dynamicvines.com