King of the grapes: cabernet sauvignon

Packed with blackcurrant and damson flavours, say hello to the 'king of grapes'. Jules Bensacq, head sommelier at London’s 28º-50º wine bar in Marylebone, chooses four of his favourite cabernet sauvignons

The Grape

One of the most famous grapes on the planet, so naturally it grew to prominence from Bordeaux, but you'll find it grown everywhere from Europe to Lebanon to Australasia. It’s also one of the oldest, with texts referring to it as one of the first planted in Bordeaux, as far back as 1736.

The Taste

Blackcurrants, damson, even the occasional plum married with mint, and red fruit on the nose. You might also find eucalyptus (especially with Australian bottles) and green peppers, too. Often very subtle, but cedarwood, mocha, cigar box, smoke and black pepper can also be found.

The Pairings

Depending on the origin and age, fruitier New World styles – which have a herbal edge – go well with beefy stews made with rosemary or thyme (both working well with blackcurrant). For more complex, older wines, tender lamb with lots of garlic is a good match. It’s also great with cheese (manchego and goat’s) or with a simple rare steak.

The Vines

Its home may be Bordeaux, but the Napa Valley in California has become renowned for its world-class cabernet, and you'll also find award-winning bottles from Coonawarra, South Australia and Hawke’s Bay in New Zealand. Italy and South Africa are known for it, and Chile grows an awful lot of cabernet with some excellent results.

2016 CHÂTEAU LA LAGUNE MADEMOISELLE L (Bordeaux, France)

A beautiful, intense colour, this is produced by the team behind the iconic Château La Lagune 3ème Grand Cru Classé. On the nose you have aromas of blackcurrant with a touch of liquorice; on the palate, a certain opulence due to characteristics of the vintage.

Available at:£17.75, vinatis.co.uk

2016 CHÂTEAU LA LAGUNE MADEMOISELLE L (Bordeaux, France)

2017 KLEIN CONSTANTIA ESTATE RED (Constantia, South Africa)

Located in one of the coolest wine regions in South Africa, Klein Constantia is able to achieve ripeness in conjunction with delicate tannins, creating a more refined red wine. Intense fruit aromas burst on the nose, followed by wood spice and a long, velvety finish.

Available at:£20.38, 8wines.com

2017 KLEIN CONSTANTIA ESTATE RED (Constantia, South Africa)

2018 TE MATA ESTATE CABERNET/MERLOT (Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand)

This is a bright magenta, with wild blackberry, red plum, cherry, cedar and rosemary all jumping from the glass. Te Mata cabernet sauvignon is considered by some the most famous critics as being one of the best alternatives to claret at a cracking price.

Available at:£14.99, majestic.co.uk

2018 TE MATA ESTATE CABERNET/MERLOT (Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand)

2013 LA JOTA HOWELL MOUNTAIN CABERNET SAUVIGNON (California, USA)

It’s a beauty. Opaque purple, with notes of liquorice, charcoal, lead-pencil shavings, blackcurrants and spice, this wine is fullbodied and lavishly rich, with sweet tannins and a long finish. Approachable now, it promises to age beautifully for 20-25 years.

Available at:£98.30, hedonism.co.uk

2013 LA JOTA HOWELL MOUNTAIN CABERNET SAUVIGNON (California, USA)

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