Pinot gris

The French ver sion of the early-ripening pink grape has bags of character, says Ben McCormack

THE GRAPE

Known as tokay-pinot gris in Alsace, grauburgunder in Germany and pinot grigio in Italy, it is the French style of wine that is most closely associated with this early-ripening, pink-skinned grape. Alsatian pinot gris grapes produce deep-coloured wines that are high in alcohol and more characterful than the Italian equivalent. Wine grown in the rest of the world will be labelled as pinot gris or grigio according to whether it is French or Italian in style, while pinot gris from New Zealand and Oregon, USA are beginning to rival their Alsatian namesake.

THE TASTE

Halfway in flavour between gewürztraminer and pinot blanc, Alsatian pinot gris has a viscous mouthfeel and complex palate of ripe tropical fruits, honey and spice that make it exceptionally food-friendly without overwhelming what’s on the plate. Kiwi and US varieties tend to prioritise straightforward fruit flavours without the luscious texture.

THE PAIRINGS

In Alsace, the rich profile of pinot gris makes it a go-to pairing for meat dishes, even those as powerfully flavoured as venison. Follow suit with steak tartare and roast pork as well as lobster thermidor or a board of hard goats’ and cows’ milk cheeses. New World styles from New Zealand and the USA are better suited to spicy Asian dishes: sweet chilli salmon, a prawn stir-fry or fiery northern Thai cooking.

THE VINES

Alsace’s south-facing vineyards, sheltered by the Vosges mountains, are among the sunniest and driest in France, and the best wines come from the 50 lower-yield vineyards that have been granted Grand Cru status. Small quantities of pinot gris are also grown in the warmer vineyard areas of Germany such as Baden. In New Zealand, dry autumns and chilly nights allow the more aromatic qualities of the grape to develop, while in Oregon, pinot gris is the second most widely planted grape: look out for wines from the Willamette Valley.