Riesling

A good riesling with balanced acidity and fruit flavours is an ideal meal companion. Luke Wasserman, co-founder of restaurant Nest, chooses his favourites

THE GRAPE

This white grape has a lengthy timeline, dating back to the 15th century and the city of Worms in Germany's Upper Rhine. Riesling is still the leading grape in the country, as it does well in cooler climates and sandy clay or slate soil. Those left on the vines for late harvest go to make the sweet, higher-alcohol dessert wines.

THE TASTE

Don’t mistake sweeter German wines of the 1980s with today's rieslings. They have fresh apple and citrus through to stone fruit and tropical pineapple and mango flavours, with notes of petrol in aged bottles.

THE PAIRINGS

Acidity and sweetness in wine are potent weapons in food pairing. They help cut through fatty and oily foods, while softening spice. Foie gras, rich duck, pork chops and spicy foods are all perfect partners. The sweet and sour flavours of Thai and Chinese are a good match, as are pretty much all desserts.

THE VINES

Germany is the big gun of riesling, with a quarter of its vines given over to it. In Alsace, France, it's a fifth of the yield. It’s second only to grüner veltliner in Austria. The cooler valleys of Australia and New Zealand's South Island are notable producers.

2019 Weingut Leitz, Eins Zwei Dry (Rheinghau, Germany)

From steep south-facing slopes in the birthplace of riesling, Leitz has a global reputation for harnessing the varietal’s natural verve. This bottle does just that with aromas of lime and pineapple leading into a bone-dry palate bursting with lemon sherbet and grapefruit.

Available at:£13.95, greatwine.co.uk

2019 Weingut Leitz, Eins Zwei Dry (Rheinghau, Germany)

2018 Pierre Frick 'B' (Alsace, France)

An early adopter and legend of biodynamic viticulture and natural winemaking, Pierre makes charming, distinctive wines. From his ‘Bihl’ vineyard, in Pfaffenheim, this fresh just off-dry cuvée offers ripe tropical fruits and ginger spice balanced by bright lemongrass acidity.

Available at:£26, lowintervention.com

2018 Pierre Frick 'B' (Alsace, France)

2018 Grosset, Polish Hill (Clare Valley, Australia)

Through sensitive farming and excellent site selection, Jeffrey Grosset and family produce steely and intense wines that have long been the benchmark for modern-day Clare Valley riesling. Zippy and minerally, Polish Hill is like drinking lime and lemon essence from a slate cup.

Available at:£34.95, kwmwine.com

2018 Grosset, Polish Hill (Clare Valley, Australia)

2018 Wiltinger Braune Kupp Spatlese, Egon Müller (Mosel, Germany)

Mosel-master Egon Müller is a riesling powerhouse. This has intense aromas and flavours of mango, pineapple, orange blossom and apricot. At 9.5% ABV, the sweetness is balanced with beautiful crystalline acidity, a mineral core and creamy finish

Available at:£134, hedonism.co.uk

2018 Wiltinger Braune Kupp Spatlese, Egon Müller (Mosel, Germany)

Get Premium access to all the latest content online

Subscribe and view full print editions online... Subscribe