Sauternes

The sauvignon-sémillon noble rot is a keeper – but don’t miss youthful versions too - Fiona Beckett shares Sauternes' secrets and chooses her top four

THE WINE
This famously long-lived dessert wine, from the Bordeaux region in south-west France, is made from sauvignon and sémillon grapes that are affected by a phenomenon called botrytis or ‘noble rot’ – a benign fungus that shrivels the grapes and concentrates the luscious juice.

THE TASTE
It all depends on whether it’s young or mature. Young Sauternes are lusciously citrusy – almost like lemon curd – and as it matures, you can find a touch of honey too, but the incredible freshness persists. Older Sauternes, which can last decades, develop richer, deeper flavours of dried apricot, mango and marmalade.

THE PAIRINGS
Oddly, the two best known pairings – foie gras and Roquefort cheese – are both savoury, but most people probably prefer to pair it with a dessert. Strawberries and cream are a sublime match in season as is a classic French fruit tart. Sauternes is also lovely with creamy desserts like panna cotta and crème brûlée.

THE DRINKALIKES
Similar sweet wines are made in other appellations of the Bordeaux region, including Cadillac, Loupiac and Saussignac. Wines are also made from late-harvest sauvignon and sémillon elsewhere in the world, most notably Australia. Those from the Riverina region of New South Wales are particularly good value.