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The dominant red grape of Rioja is the perfect partner for hearty autumnal meals. Maxim Kassir, head sommelier at the Japanese and Nordic eateries that form London’s Pantechnicon, chooses four favourites
One of the most commonly planted varieties in the world, its name is derived from the Spanish for early, temprano, reflecting its prompt ripening. Said to have been brought to the Iberian Peninsula by the Phoenicians, it’s a mainstay of the Rioja region, and used to make port in Portugal, where it’s known as tinta roriz.
A medium to full-bodied wine with moderate tannins, it’s fruitier when younger, with red fruits dominating – cherries, strawberries and raspberries are usually to the fore, but you’ll also find plums, prunes and blackberries, depending on the region. You may get hints of leather, cedar and tobacco in older bottles.
It comes into its own at this time of year as it’s perfect with game and all things fungi. Smoky, barbecued meats work well too, as do tomato-based pizza and pasta dishes. And, given its Spanish heartland, a pairing with Jamón Ibérico de Bellota is perfection.
Naturally, its popularity in Spain – home to 87 per cent of the world’s tempranillo – has spread to Mexico, Argentina and California, but Portugal’s Douro Valley is the other mainstay, with New Zealand and Australia also producing some fine pours.
Ripe red and black fruit aromas with cloves, black pepper and spice, and tobacco, liquorice and coffee on the palate.
Available at:£27.95, davywine.co.uk
This medium-to-full bodied Argentinian tempranillo expresses the terroir of the high altitude vineyards of Valle de Uco. Intense flavours of red cherries and ripe tomatoes.
Available at:£17, shop.oxfordwine.co.uk
In Portugal, the grape plays an important part in port blends. Serve this elegant, complex tawny slightly chilled as an aperitif, or with strong cheese.
Available at:£25, qpawines.co.uk
A wine with great purity and freshness, the hallmarks of Flor de Pingus, allied to a certain old-vine complexity. The vines have a deep root system, intensifying the wine’s personality, and there’s a richness of texture on the mid-palate and finish.
Available at:£115, hic-winemerchants.com
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