Word on the Vine: Carmenere

When left to ripen fully, this Chilean mainstay is a serious rival to the fine malbecs and cabernet sauvignons

THE GRAPE

This historic red variety was all but wiped out in 19th-century France by phylloxera. Carménère is still permitted as one of the six noble Bordeaux grapes, though rarely used. Generally minus the French accents, the bulk of carmenere production is now focused on Chile, where until 1994 it was believed to be merlot. Fast-forward 30 years and Chilean carmenere has established its own identity, with the country’s winemakers convinced it can rival not only Argentinian malbec but also Chile’s greatest cabernet sauvignons.

THE TASTE

Carmenere displays unappealingly strident notes of green pepper when picked early, but if the late-ripening grape is allowed to reach its full potential, the result is an inky-red wine, with the herbaceous notes emerging instead as sweet red pepper and herbs, layered over plum, cherry and blackcurrant, with a dash of warm spice – especially vanilla and nutmeg if aged in oak.

THE VINES

The grape has made its home in the warmest and sunniest sites of Chile’s Central Valley, where it can fully ripen at its own slow pace, but it needs judicious management. Carmenere requires well-drained soils to flourish and thrives in carefully irrigated hillside vineyards. Without hard pruning, the vigorously growing vines develop unpleasant vegetal flavours.

THE MATCHES

Imagine the sort of food you would flavour with red pepper or oregano – pizza or steak, perhaps – or any spicy food. You won’t go far wrong with a weekend chilli con carne or fajitas in front of the football, or look out for carmenere on the wine list the next time you’re in an Indian restaurant. Its fruity richness is also a good match for prune and apricot-strewn tagines.

This article was taken from the Oct 2025 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.