Word on the Vine: Godello

This zesty white from north-west Spain, neglected for decades, is making waves thanks to talented growers

THE GRAPE

Twenty years ago, no one had heard of albariño; now godello (pronounced ‘go-deh-yo’), northwest Spain’s other great white grape, is moving into the spotlight. It had almost disappeared by the 1970s, but a small group of dedicated growers and producers revived godello’s fortunes by focusing on the best vineyard sites and scrupulous quality control. In Portugal’s Douro and Dão regions, it is called gouveio.

THE TASTE

Like albariño, godello is as zesty as a squeeze of fresh citrus fruit, softened by a spoonful of peach and pear. Pay a little more, however – generally over £10 a bottle – and godello displays more body and depth than its fellow Galician white. This is especially true of godello wines aged in oak barrels and made using grapes from older, lower-yielding vines with more intense flavours that could be mistaken for white Burgundy.

THE VINES

Galicia may be best known for its coastline, but godello thrives in the region’s landlocked Valdeorras DOP, as well as neighbouring Monterrey, Ribeiro and Ribeira Sacra, plus Bierzo in the neighbouring province of Castilla y León. High rainfall – Valdeorras is wetter than Dublin – and vines planted at high altitude result in crisp, aromatic and minerally wines, while rocky soils ensure lower yields of grapes from vines that must work hard to thrive.

THE MATCHES

Grilled seafood with a good squeeze of lemon is a suitably Spanish match, be that sardines, squid and scallops or monkfish; prawn paella would be a perfect pairing too. Oaked godellos are great with roast chicken and salad, or a pork and apricot casserole if it’s chilly. And if it’s too hot to even think about cooking, try tuna carpaccio or smoked salmon.

This article was taken from the August/September 2025 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.