Word on the Vine, Sangiovese

The ancient Etruscans put their trust in it - and Chianti's hero grape is still going strong

THE GRAPE

Italy’s most planted red grape has deep roots in the country’s winemaking history, with origins tracing back to the ancient Etruscans of central Italy. Sangiovese is the defining grape of Tuscany, where it stars in the bright, fruit-forward DOCG wines of Chianti, including Chianti Superiore and Riserva. The stricter ageing requirements of Chianti Classico create depth and structure, although sangiovese arguably reaches its finest expression in the long-lived Brunello di Montalcino, crafted near Siena.

THE TASTE

At its best, the grape delivers deeply coloured wines of great refinement. Young examples twang with sour cherry and crisp acidity, becoming more savoury and nuttier with age before settling into a dense, plummy richness. The shift from traditional Slovenian oak barrels to smaller
French oak barriques has lent Chianti a smoother, more concentrated profile. Meanwhile, the lighter Sangiovese di Romagna – produced in vast quantities around Bologna – is probably best enjoyed only while holidaying in the region.

THE MATCHES

Go all-in on Italian classics. A well-priced Chianti is a great match for a tomato-laden pizza or pasta with ragù, while more refined versions shine alongside top-quality steak or a Sunday roast. But, despite Hannibal Lecter’s grisly joke about pairing liver and fava beans with ‘a nice Chianti’ in The Silence of the Lambs film, in the book he actually opts for Amarone.

THE VINES

The rolling hills of Chianti are divided into seven sub-zones, stretching from Arezzo to Florence, Pisa and Siena. The relatively high altitude tempers the heat of long, dry summers, lending freshness and elegance to the wines. Chianti Classico lies at the heart of the region, while Brunello di Montalcino comes from vineyards surrounding the beautifully preserved hilltop town of Montalcino.

This article was taken from the April 2025 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.