Word on the Vine, Torrontés

This heady, highly perfumed white from Argentina is at its best when young and lively

THE GRAPE
If malbec is the iconic red grape of Argentina, torrontés is the country’s signature white. It was once thought to be a relative of the torrontés grown in Galicia, Spain, but tests have revealed the Argentinian grape to be a hybrid of light-and-fruity criolla (known as mission in English) and the intensely perfumed muscat of Alexandria.

THE TASTE
It’s as much about fragrance as flavour: an explosion of flowers and citrus fruits that can seem like the wine equivalent of a neroli-based perfume. On the palate, the wines may be crisp and light-bodied or juicily ripe. All need to be drunk young, as their vivacity is not built to last.

THE MATCHES
Less headily fragranced torrontés is served as an apéritif in Argentina, so think of these as a pre-dinner palate-refresher on hot days or an accompaniment to spicy snacks like empanadas and garlic prawns, or citrusy Asian food such as lemon chicken. More aromatic examples canstand up to barbecued fish and cream-based chicken and pork dishes.

THE VINES
The difference between a good torrontés and a bad one is the acidity needed to make the wine lively. In general, the higher the altitude, the better the wine. Look for wines made in the foothills of the Andes around Cafayate, in the northern province of Salta. But don’t ignore those grown at altitude further south in Mendoza.