Zinfandel

The ripe red fruit of California's primitivo is perfect for winter roasts, says Ben McCormack

THE GRAPE

The signature red grape of California, zinfandel was believed to be native to the USA until 1994, when DNA profiling revealed it was the same variety as Italian primitivo. Widely planted for blends as well as varietal wines, large quantities of early-picked fruit are made into white (or blush) zinfandel, an off-dry rosé.

THE TASTE
It can ripen unevenly, resulting in harvests with both raisined and underripe grapes but at its best it produces fruity, full-bodied wines with high tannins and high alcohol levels that can age for six years. Ripe red fruit – cherries, raspberries – and often a touch of spice dominate, along with vanilla. Lower-alcohol zins are fresher and more balanced, while commercially successful whites have less taste.

THE PAIRINGS
The sticky, jammy fruit flavours of American barbecue are a natural match; otherwise, try spicy salami pizzas, robust pasta sauces, Chinese roast meat, bangers and mash, or wild winter venison and fruit sauces: use up any leftover Christmas cranberry sauce with roast chicken and a bottle of zin.

THE VINES
Production is concentrated in northern and central California,
where it was the most widely planted grape until 1998, when it was
overtaken by cabernet sauvignon; the oldest-documented zinfandel
vines in the state were planted in the Shenandoah Valley in 1869.
Zinfandel also thrives in new-world areas with similarly warm
climates like Argentina, Chile, South Africa and Western Australia.

Ben recommends his top four zinfandels for savouring solo and enjoying alongside food