Somaia Hammad's Turnin

Known for fine local cuisine, from truffles, veal and wine to the ubiquitous gianduja, the baroque capital of Piedmont in northern Italy has a rich history, with even the ancient Egyptians leaving their mark.

Words by Alex Mead

This article was taken from the May 2025 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.

Piedmont sits in Italy’s far north-west, wedged between Switzerland, France and four of its fellow Italian regions. It carves out its place between the Aosta Valley, the Alps and the Apennines – mountains that have shaped its character as much as its history. Influences have come and gone, but what remains is distinctly Piedmontese, reflected in its people, cuisine, culture and capital, Turin. Here, in this understated city of some 850,000, baroque facades rise against an alpine backdrop, while the rhythm of life is fuelled by truffles, vines,veal and butter – essentially, all the good things. ‘I love Turin; I miss it so much,’ says Somaia Hammad, head chef of Nipotina in London. ‘I’d say it’s romantic, especially in the evening, but lively too – particularly down near the River Po, where you can drink and dance with the locals.’

The Turin-born chef picks up the threads of her own story. ‘It started with my grandmother,’ she says. ‘She grew up in Puglia, but moved to Turin when she was about 40, bringing with her all the flavours of her childhood – so we had the very best of southern Italy too.’ As her father was also a chef, Somaia – who worked under Claude Bosi at Socca – grew up with the best of both ends of Italy. ‘We’ve always been behind the fire,’ she says of her family’s passion for cooking. ‘My father told me not to get into food – he said, “Do anything but this.” He was always very honest... But I couldn’t help it. I’ve always loved creating dishes, mixing ingredients, trying new things. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t – but it’s up to chefs to make it happen, to keep pushing.’

A childhood spent in the kitchen – making fresh pasta or helping with one of Grandma’s desserts – led to culinary school. But before she finishedthere, Somaia was already finding work. ‘I was doing the catering course but even during the week, I’d skip school to go work – I loved it,’ she says. ‘I realised that when you finished [culinary] school, all the jobs would ask for experience, but if you’ve only been in school, you don’t have any at that point. So I started early – at 15 – to get ahead. I didn’t want to be 19 and jobless. And you don’t learn about a real kitchen at school anyway, as you’ll get two hours to prep for a presentation at school, but that’s a luxury. In a real kitchen, especially during rush hour, you don’t get hours to prepare. You just have to keep up.’ After getting the head start she wanted – racking up hours in the kitchens of Palasport Olimpico, a venue famed for hosting huge concerts, Somaia soon made her way to London. She worked at Il Borro Tuscan Bistro, The May Fair Hotel, Harry’s Marylebone and Lina Stores before joining Samyukta Nair’s restaurant stable, first at Socca, then heading up the kitchen at casual Italian Nipotina in Mayfair.

‘The name – meaning granddaughter – comes from Sam and me both being granddaughters, but it’s also deeply personal. I’m very attached to my family, especially my grandmother. Everything came from that feeling of having Sunday lunch with my family in Turin. That’s what I want people to experience when they dine at Nipotina,’ says Somaia. When it comes to source material, she has a strong foundation in her home town. ‘The food scene in Turin is excellent – we have a deep culinary history,’ she says. ‘People love going to osterias and trattorias for that home- style cooking. Michelin-starred restaurants offer an experience, but that’s not necessarily what you come to a city like Turin for. When I travel, I want to discover the home- style cuisine – that’s where the roots are. And that’s what Turin does best.’

When it comes to specifics, Turin’s cuisine leans towards hearty, wintry comfort food. ‘We have vitello tonnato – sliced veal with tuna, egg, anchovy and a caper-based sauce – and bagna càuda, a kind of soup made from anchovies and garlic,’ Somaia explains. ‘You’d better sleep alone after eating that! It’s traditionally served with raw vegetables like peppers – very heavy yet powerful. ‘We try to bring a balance of both north and south at Nipotina,’ she continues. ‘I love vitello tonnato and gianduja – the hazelnut and chocolate paste that paved the way for one of Piedmont’s most famous exports, Nutella – but I also love orecchiette, Puglia’s ear-shaped pasta. ‘In Turin, after coffee, they always serve a gianduiotto, a small chocolate – and we do the same. And we also have bicerin, a hot drink made of coffee, milk and gianduja, carefully layered in a glass,’ she adds. ‘You have to drink it as it is – no mixing.’

She quickly reels off a few must-try dishes: Fassona tartare – made from the lean, intensely flavoured local beef; agnolotti del plin – pasta stuffed with beef and cabbage; acciughe al bagnet verd – anchovies in green sauce, a favourite starter; tajarin – Piedmont’s delicate tagliarini, best with truffle; and the rich, slow-braised meats found across the region. And beyond the food? Why visit Turin? ‘Apart from the fact that I think it’s way better than Milan?’ she laughs. ‘It’s a completely different atmosphere – more local, more intimate. We’ve got more historic parts, the residences of the Savoy family [an Italian royal house dating back to 1003] and one of the most important Egyptian museums in the world.’

‘Turin’s atmosphere is local, intimate. And, further north in Piedmont, there are the vineyards: everywhere, they pair local wine with food’

The Museo Egizio, or Egyptian Museum, is one of the most intriguing and impressive sights in Turin. The oldest museum in the world dedicated to Egyptian culture, its history goes back to 1630. ‘You also have to visit the Mole Antonelliana,’ Somaia continues. ‘It’s the symbol of Turin. From the roof, you can see the entire city. And inside, there’s a cinema museum where you can watch films about the history of the city. Don’t miss Valentino’s Park along the River Po, either, with its fairytale castle.’

Beyond the city, Somaia recommends a trip to Liguria, the neighbouring region a relatively short drive away, offering a seaside escape to contrast the mountains, vineyards and truffle-rich woodlands of Piedmont. ‘You absolutely have to go to Langhe,’ she adds, bringing the conversation back to Piedmont. ‘It’s further north of Turin, with all the mountains and vineyards and interesting restaurants. ‘They all serve Piedmontese cuisine, so you can’t go wrong,’ Somaia says. ‘You can walk through the vineyards, and everywhere they pair local wine with food. Some vineyards offer places to stay, so you can enjoy the views. That’s what I love to do.’

Back in London, Nipotina, which opened only last year, is already a neighbourhood favourite in one of the toughest areas to make an impact: Mayfair. That success, it must be said, is down to Somaia’s passion for cooking, which was born in Turin. ‘I used to cook at home and I loved it,’ she says. ‘I think the reason I love this job so much is the same: you’re giving a piece of yourself to people when they eat your food. I like seeing the happiness on their faces when they enjoy whatever you’ve prepared. That’s the magic of cooking.’

Somaia Hammad's Hotspots

LOCANDA DEL BOLLITO

If you’d like to try the local favourite, boiled meat, this is the place for you. You choose the cut you want, then pick from a range of sauces. The meat is slow- cooked to perfection. locandadelbollito.it

FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO

Del Cambio is a Michelin- starred restaurant in the heart of the city, but the Farmacia is for breakfast. Instead of classic croissants, you’ll find cubes or pies that look like flowers, with gianduja inside. A very cool spot.farmaciadelcambio.it

CAFFÈ ELENA
A historic café near the Chiesa della Gran Madre di Dio that’s known for its fantastic aperitivo. Vermouth is one of the city’s signature drinks, and here they serve the best. +39 329 576 7414

THE HOTEL OPERA35
A brilliant place to stay – it’s in a beautiful belle époque building and has everything you need. opera35.com

PASTIFICIO DE FILIPPIS

For fresh pasta, this is the best, with a long history; it’s both a restaurant and a shop– one I rely on when I’m not making my own pasta at home. pastificiodefilippis.it

OSTERIA DEL MUSICANTE
A trattoria-style spot, great for traditional Piedmontese dishes. osteriadelmusicante.it

CAFFÈ SAN CARLO
One of Turin’s oldest cafés, with a medieval interior; its coffee is famed. costardibros.it