Chelsea, London

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Shaded by bottle-green awnings that are reminiscent of Harrods’ and with a counter display so immaculate it rivals Fortnum & Mason’s, this debonair new delicatessen on Chelsea’s Fulham Road offers a taste of the country’s most decadent food halls in miniature form. Don’t be deceived by its corner-shop countenance – fresh interiors reveal a selection of oligarch-worthy picnic fare as sumptuous as the label-saddled crowd striding past. Co-founded by the team behind Belgium’s Michelin-starred La Villa Lorraine, and with ex-The Ritz chef Chris Hill in the kitchen, an uncompromising ethos of quality pervades every product stocked across the length of its terrazzo-tiled floor.

Join champagne-sipping locals as they stock up on hamper essentials from the American walnut-clad counter. Thickly marbled charcuterie and roasted ham joints crusted with mustard crumb join oozing brie and wedges of crumbling blue cheese. Bowls of fresh truffles crowd glistening smoked salmon fillets, while golden pithiviers stand in tidy rows like burnished pastry crowns, surrounded by homemade Scotch eggs hiding silken centres. Stacked three-pastries high, buttery croissants fight for attention beside glazed patisserie topped with fresh fruit. Further along, ritzy ready-meals in ceramic dishes await hungry commuters. Try the canary-yellow tortellinis stuffed with lobster tails, pick up a beef Wellington for one, or grab an oxtail cottage pie prepped for the oven at home. A deposit scheme ensures that the crockery is returned.

For your larder, tightly packed battalions of Château d’Estoublon olive oil, palm-sized caviar tins and elegant jars of Newton & Pott pickles await. Whether popping in for a latte and a pain au chocolat (in a gold-embossed takeaway bag) or calling ahead to order a dinner party’s worth of delights, you’ll be treated just the same by the deferential staff.

Words by Lucy Kehoe

This review was taken from the May 2020 issue of Food and Travel.

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