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Serves 4 Starters and mains
Preheat the oven to 180C/160C F/Gas 4.
Cut the leeks crossways into 10cm-long pieces, then split them in half lengthways. Rinse with slightly warm water to remove any grit, holding securely so the layers don’t separate and fall apart. Put the rinsed leeks, cut-side down, in a baking dish. Sprinkle the sea salt and black pepper over, scatter the onion and garlic over and disperse the cubes of butter, the lemon peel and the olive oil evenly over everything. Roast for 35-40 minutes until the leeks have no resistance when poked with a skewer and the tops start charring a bit. Remove from the oven, drizzle with the vinegar and set aside to cool.
For the oregano oil, combine the oregano and sea salt in a pestle and mortar and pound until the oregano gets a bit pulpy. Begin adding the oil, 1tbsp at a time, pounding and smashing the oregano gently so as not to splash the oil.
When you have added all the oil, allow the mixture to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Strain the oregano oil through muslin into a small jar, pressing on the herbs to extract all the liquid.
Toast the bread under the grill until golden on both sides, allowing it to char a little.
Spoon a thin layer of the whipped ricotta over the toasts, then arrange an even layer of the room-temperature leeks over the ricotta, along with some of their juices. Add a few spoonfuls of the oregano oil, put the anchovies on top of the leeks and garnish with the thyme flowers or leaves. Sprinkle sea salt and black pepper over and serve.

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