Peel the parsnips, cut them into fat lumps and steam them for 10 minutes in a colander over a pan of boiling water.
Warm a couple of heaped spoonfuls of fat in a roasting tin at 180˚C/350˚F/Gas 4, then tip in the steamed parsnips. Roast for 45 minutes or so, until their insides are soft and creamy, their exterior golden brown and, here and there, almost black. An occasional turn in the pan is a good thing, but too much meddling will prevent them achieving the ultimate sticky crust.
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Photographs taken from Tender: Volume 1 by Nigel Slater (Fourth Estate, £30).
