Angelus

4 Bathurst St, London

Sommeliers have sometimes been known to fall into one of two camps: pompous, supercilious and incomprehensible; or so young and hip they feel obliged to drop to their knees and call you ‘mate’ while up-selling a biodynamic bin from the latest Macedonian producer you’ve embarrassingly not heard of. Not so at Angelus, Thierry Tomasin’s French bistro near Paddington. As head sommelier at Le Gavroche for 11 years and Aubergine for three, his list is the trump card here, with exciting bottles from all over the world at wallet-friendly prices. Tomasin wants to give an oenological experience you won’t find elsewhere. Tomatoes for the dish of gazpacho, tartine of beef and tomato tartare come from a heritage tomato farm on the Isle of Wight and have a delicate sweetness. The soup is well spiced, zingy and not too cold, while a perfectly pink roast pigeon with white andouillette, corn and rainbow chard could have come from one of the best restaurants in Paris. A meal led by wine, more than ably supported by the food. MS. 020 7402 0083, angelusrestaurant.co.uk